OK, the first few aren't bad but aren't as exacting as I would like, after sliding on the sleeve there just seems to be a lot of loose fibers that break loose and get into the first coating. So am I just overworking it as I wipe it down to get the excess epoxy out of the first coat and to get it to adhere to the core shape?

Next there as got to be a bit of info folks will share about how to get the sleeving to follow the grip shape that inserts into the reel seat. Perhaps I have just put too much resin on in the first pass and if I use less then I can zip tie it around the insert part and then zip tie again to get the sleeve flattened onto the grip flat end face. I just couldn't get the insert edge squared up neatly. But it would help to know if that is the key before I waste any more sleeving / don't get the exact desired shape.

Thanks for any tips you migh share.

I use the shrink tube method so there are no fibers to come loose. The tubing shrinks and expels any excess resin.

.............

Charles,

I've made 22 of these and have had the same problems as you including way too many bubbles. Got best results with following technique. Preseal shaped core with epoxy resin (Auto) cures quicker and less expensive. Bore handle to fit blank. Slide on carbon fiber sleeve be careful not to spread weave too much with dowel (pencil) push sleeve material into hole in one end, push tight and leave in. With the larger bored hole it is easier to evenly distribute material over end. Should help with with your end problems, did mine. Work sleeve tightly to other end and plug tightly with a dowel, again careful not to spread weave. Apply epoxy, I have best results with a 1/2" to 3/4"artist brush. Slow, even and full length strokes.Tried hand, finger (latex gloved), small brush, spatula and foam brush, always too many bubbles. **Be sure to keep finish level and even on the ends.** Now next step is new (for me). With epoxy applied put the wet handle with dowels in a food vacuum bag an vacuum seal. Plastic bag doesn't stick and NO bubbles, yes it creates raised seams which need to be removed. I use a single edge razor blade and fingernail board. Tried the heat shrink tubing but never satisfied with the ends.

Good Luck & Have Fun

John

JLS Custom Rods
Cassadaga, NY

Thanks for sharing your method. Rodney and I were talking about a vacuum system versus a shrink tube system just last week. There is still a lot of experimentation to be done with the carbon-fiber skins.

...............

I tried the food vacuum seal method as well - but really wasn't happy with the result. I think the shrink tubing gives a better result. I don't use that either though.

Here's what I've been doing for the last year or more...

- Turn your core to the shape
- Slide core on waxed mandrel, slide on fiber and zip tie ends - but them up very tight to get your contours. you also want the fiber VERY tight along the core.
- I'm using West System epoxy - wet out the mat. I put it on the rod dryer and let it turn as I wet out the material. I use a lot of epoxy and let it soak in good. I just use a chip brush to apply and apply in one direction.
- I let that dry over night turning on the rod dryer. I put the core on the lathe, trim the ends as needed (and excess epoxy), slide a flat chisel along the grip to knock off any bumps, then hit it with a scotchbrite pad
- clean it
- coat two of epoxy - much thinner - this just levels out the bumps - let dry turning on the rod dryer
- once dry, I ream to fit. Wet sand the surface to remove any imperfections, and the top coat with a clear urethane or some other one part finish

Here's what mine end up looking like:
[www.rodbuilding.org]
[www.rodbuilding.org]

The results look great and the fit and finish is pretty good as well.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/05/2011 10:13AM by Alex Dziengielewski.

Alex'

Excellent work!

I have better luck with dowels. Whatever works for each is the "right" way. But don't you get bubbles? The fella at Soller Composites confirmed that curing epoxy creates its own bubbles. I ordered shrink tubing, at the same time he suggested the vacuum method as well, but without one of those I get hundreds of bubbles. Also he told me to keep the temp. colder, with my unheated basement that's not a problem.

John

JLS Custom Rods
Cassadaga, NY

Thanks.

No bubbles. I work in 70 - 80 deg temps.

I found the ridges from vac bags really aggravating. The vacuum system should be best because all air is removed. I didn't want to invest in a real vac system though.

I prefer mandrels because when I coat the ends of the grip, they don't stick to a waxed mandrel as much. Dowels would give some cheaper size options though. I also don't push the material inside the bore.I just zip tie beside the end of the grip. The little bit of "flange" that is there is gone once I ream the grip.

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Alex, I've got a vac system over here. I'm gonna give it a try soon. It is a veneer clamping system and is way more than is necessary. Quite expensive too.

Lane - drop me an email once you try that out. I'm real interested in the results. My biggest issue right now is somewhere to set that up. My shop is pretty much full.

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Alex
Kitchen table!
You have an understanding wife

Lane, how about something simpler like the video shown on the Solar Composites website? Vacuum film used top and bottom on a nice, flat table.

If/when I get to trying vacuum, that's the route I'll go.

Your tips with the zip ties are allowing me to crank out a bunch of nice grips lately, btw. Ends coming out very clean and uniform.

Bob Mankin Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Lane, how about something simpler like the video
> shown on the Solar Composites website? Vacuum film
> used top and bottom on a nice, flat table.
>
> If/when I get to trying vacuum, that's the route
> I'll go.
>
> Your tips with the zip ties are allowing me to
> crank out a bunch of nice grips lately, btw. Ends
> coming out very clean and uniform.

What appears simple in that video isn't really simple. The equipment needed to do that is beyond what most hobby type guys would be willing to spring for. If you price vacuum pumps you would be quite surprised at how much they cost and that's just the pump. Factor in valves, gauges, switches, pipe, tubing, fittings, bags, breather fabric, and mastic sealing tape and you are up there in cost a substantial amount.

Lane