HI There all, anyone tried threadmaster as a finish for a wooden reel insert. Just wondered how it would fare?
best wishes,
David

Much better using cyanoacrylate (CA)

Too soft, it will scratch.

Ken is spot on, you can also use a True Oil, Spar and many others.

Eric

for some reason I get very variable resuits with CA - patches and dull spots.
cheers
David

True Oil makes a very nice "patina" finish. If you're going to the ICRBE speak with JP Timberlake about CA finishes

CA can provide some very nice results - there are many methods rod builders and pen makers employ. A problem with CA is that many users don't get good results consistently. I've come to believe that inconsistency can be caused by climatic conditions. I'm in the Northeast and depending on weather conditions (especially humid conditions) clouding can occur. So over the four seasons here the conditions are very different. I would think that those in the Southwest would fare best, unless you can control the conditions where applying and polishing CA. I can't, my lathe is in my garage. One Winter I turned out a great CA finish on a teak reel seat insert. The temperature in my garage was below 40 degrees. Took the insert indoors and took some pictures, then set the insert aside. When I looked at the insert an hour later much of the finish had clouded over - caused I think by condensation on the cold surface in a warm environment.

I've moved on to finishes that yield more consistent results.

Jeff Shafer

What about Permagloss or LumiSeal

And then again why not use finish - Thinned and several coats - Sanded and then polished. Let it dry for a week or more

Ya I know I am going to here about this

Bill - willierods.com

After using many different finishes, including CA, I settled on Tru-Oil. I use a dipping method and then polish with Micro-Mesh.
I think the results speak for themselves:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Walt Natzke
Ripon, CA

Walt -
That's beautiful ..... I really never thought to keep at it with a polishing agent. Duh - oh!

Tru-Oil will also give a very high gloss finish if wet sanded with micro mesh

rod epoxy does not work well as a finish for woods or handles....it can react to the oils in wood and scratches easily....there are many other options available that are easier to use, look better, and more durable...tru oil, danish oil, tung oil, CA, CAblo, and many urethanes/polyurethanes are just some examples...Walt that is a beautiful piece of wood and great finish



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2011 07:07PM by john timberlake.

I have used both true oil and spar with many many coats, wet sanded and then polished with HUT mico-compound and the finish is a deep gloss with no ill affect. same rains true for CA. With the CA I think that the "dull spots" come from sanding through the finish, at least it is in my case. You have to pay careful attention when applying the finish to ensure you have even coats. I do mine on the lathe and gently spin y hand as I apply the finish and smooth with my finger (gloves on of course) I then sand dry with 400 till smooth, applying more to fill holes as needed. I then move to the sink and go strait to the 800, 1500 and 2000. Then polish with the HUT compound. When all is done a light coat of pure carnuba just for good looks.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Mnay thanks to you all. I'm over in the UK and my lathe is in my shed, so climate can be VERY variable. I think this may be part of my issue with CA. Inconsistent climate / humidity = inconsistent results.
I think I'll try tru oil. Is there a tutor online as to how to best use and get a gloss finish. I noticed Walt dips his and then polishes. Could you expand on this a little Walt - ie how many times you dip, how long before polishing?
many thanks

David

David,
Tom K. wrote an article in Rodmaker Vol.12 #2 showing a process using Tru Oil that works very well.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

Thanks John.

Walt Natzke
Ripon, CA

Thanks Ken.

Walt Natzke
Ripon, CA

Many thanks Chad, Is there anyway of getting a back copy of this article?
cheers
David

Here you go David...

[www.rodmakermagazine.com]

You may want to double check with Tom K. but I'm 99% certain that "Perfect Wood Finish" in Vol. 12 #2 is the article you're looking for.

Thanks,
Chad Huderle

Huderle Custom Rods
Prior Lake, MN

The number of dips depends on the grain of the wood being used. For instance, Koa, Bocote, Walnut, and other open-grained woods will require more coats to get the grain filled up whereas Maple will take less coats.

My basic approach with open-grain wood is three coats followed by a full sanding almost back down to the wood. Then finish up with 2-3 more coats, then finish with Micro-Mesh down to 12,000 grit and polish with auto polish.
If I am making a mortised insert, I do the three dips, and then mortise. This keeps the edges sharp on the mortise.

Tru-Oil dries quickly, so you can polish within 24 hours of the last coat of finish.

Oh, by the way, some woods, like Bocote, Cocobolo and Teak, have natural oils in them that will repel any finish you apply. After sanding but prior to the first coat of finish, you should wipe with denatured alcohol or equivalent and allow to dry. This will help the adhesion of the finish.

Walt Natzke
Ripon, CA

Many thanks Walt! I'll give it a try!
cheers
David