I talked to a guide this afternoon that is looking for a specific rod that he can't find in a store. I don't know much about trolling so I need some help. Here are his requirements:

The rod will be used for planer board trolling for walleyes.
Length: 6'6" to 7'
Line: 14lb
Action: He wants something that has enough backbone to break the rubber bands he's using. He says he cannot find the right factory rod that has a great action for trolling and yet has enough backbone to break the rubber bands without a big hassle. He says all of the rods he has tried don't have the backbone he wants. He'd also like the rod to have a fast tip...

Like I said, I don't to much at all about trolling, most of my clients have been bass fishermen.

Any suggestions for blanks?

Thanks,
jeremy



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/13/2011 07:28PM by Jeremy Wagner.

Not to shorten the discussion or stop any sales but
I think the problem may be with the rubber bands he's trying to break and not the rod he believes he needs. Here are a couple of URL hints on this
technique.....

[www.northcarolinasportsman.com]
[www.weldontackle.com]

knicking the rubber band or leaving it out in the sun for a day will also weaken them

Jeremy, the nice thing about trolling rods is that there are lots of blanks out there for the application. The best ones in my opinion are the ones made of fiberglass. I have several of them in different lengths that were built out of old school blanks that were around for years. Several of the sponsors on here carry blanks that will be perfect for your build. Mine were so old of blanks i couldn't even discern the model or maker. Maybe someone has some CCS info on some of them. I don't think i kept any records on the ones I built. i would recommend that you try and convince your customer to go with a spiral wrap, In my opinion, it's the best thing going for the board applications. Also you might just check out what the box stores have to give you an idea of a possible blank to purchase. Since they are very utilitarian tools, when I built mine I painted some of them in different colors to get the paint experience, they turned out very nice and have held up well over the years. something along the lines of a shakespere ugly stick would probably be a nice one, I'm bettin some of the sponsors here have something similar, Good luck and have fun with the build.

Look at the Batson RDR70M.
7' long, fibreglass at the upper end blending into graphite at the butt.
Moderate action tip area, with backbone from the graphite blend below.
Fairly light in the hand, yet durable in a rod holder.
Here is a link:
[www.schneidersrods.com]

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Jeremy,
the CB783-Blend or CB843-Blend in the MHX lineup would fit this application nicely.

Regards,

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

Ken,
That's exactly what I was thinking...wouldn't it be cheaper to modify the rubber bands?

I'll be checking out the suggestions.

jeremy

Jeremy -
One trick that the captains here do is to twist the rubber band (3 to 5 times) - not sure exactly why but they snap much easier. Sorry I can't help you with trolling for walleyes as I've never done that. How hard they hit / how hard they "fight" is going to have a lot to do with the blank. For planers, planing boards and outriggers for saltwater fish about the same size the fellows around here use mostly composite rods. A rod that the tip can be loaded down to where the power kicks in that way when a fish hits the power area of the rod is sufficient to snap the rubber band - in other words the tip is bent down pretty good (through the two 1/3) when the lines are set.

I agree with many of the comments on breaking the rubber bands. Another trick I use to break my bands (small reds) is to reel down and take up the slack, pointing the tip directly at the release clip. Give a sharp slap to the butt of the rod handle, the rubber band will either break or pull free from the release. My suspicion is that he is Roland Martin jerking at the releases and the mono line he is using is taking up all the power he is trying to put to the rubber bands. Anyways, the MHX blanks that Todd suggested are very good choices. Like others have said, it is mostly in his rubber band choice and release setup, along with his technique, that is giving him fits. The last few years on Saginaw Bay, the fish have been running around 2-5 lbs, with the occasional pig thrown in. Most of these fish won't pull the rubber band from the release on the strike and will need help like he is obviously experiencing. The simple butt slap works like a charm and eliminates excited customers and captains from whacking the rods on the fly bridge after a Roland Martin. Off topic-why do we dall it a Roland Martin, msot of the TV show bass guys do the exagerated jerks LOL? It is the first thing I show guests aboard my boat when trolling for walleye, saves lots of parts and cause for frustration.

Ken Preston Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Not to shorten the discussion or stop any sales
> but
> I think the problem may be with the rubber bands
> he's trying to break and not the rod he believes
> he needs. Here are a couple of URL hints on this
> technique.....
>
> [www.northcarolinasportsman.com]?
> id=1091
> [www.weldontackle.com]
> er_bands.html
>
> knicking the rubber band or leaving it out in the
> sun for a day will also weaken them

I agree. I have have problem breaking rubber bands with #50 tackle sometime. Change the rubber bands or go to release clips.