I just got two used surf rods from @#$%&. An ugly stick BWS 1100-12 and a Daiwa 5125 13'. The shakespeare is in decent shape with some touch up needed on the epoxy at the guide feet and the guide frames need painting. The Daiwa is a teardown. I am considering grip choices for the Daiwa and since my hands are fairly small, I don't want to increase the diameter of the rod If I don't have to (butt diameter of the blank is 1.1"). I was considering the following options:

1. Shrink wrap with a plate seat.
2. Butt cord with a plate seat.

My question for both of those methods is: How does the seat interface with the cord or the shrink wrap?

Paint the frames of the guides ??? You will be better to strip the blank, paint it then replace the guides.

Bill - willierods.com

All of the plate seats I've seen are wrapped on with thread (ends and center). So the shrink wrap (or cord) would go on top of the threads

Here's where my mental block comes in. If the seat is wrapped to the blank, does the shrink wrap cover the end wraps but not the center one?

Yes, it will only cover the end wraps.

If I add the plate seat on top of the shrink wrap, can I then wrap thread around the shrink tube or should I cut channels in the tube to accomodate the thread?

You could put the seat on top of the shrink wrap; then epoxy it just as you would a guide but I think that it looks better if the seat is wrapped on with size D (or even E) thread and then the shrink tube is put over the ends of the plate seat. I think this will also result in a longer lasting, more permanent attachment of the seat to the blank. The "bare" blank will show in the center -- or you could put a short "fancy" wrap under the center of the plate seat to jazz it up just a little - a short Scott Throop Tiger wrap in there, I think, would look very nice.

Sounds good. For the termination at the front of the foregrip, would electrical tape make sense?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/07/2011 10:59AM by john backos.

First, the adhesive on electrical tape will melt in the heat and become messy.
Have you checked the height of a plate vs a graphite reel seat? I do not believe you will find much of an advantage in using a plate as compared to using a close fitting graphite seat. There have been issues with failures of plate seats. I do not know their current status.

I am not familiar with Daiwa rods. Since you mention small hands, should I consider it a conventional rod?
If it conventional and the reel is small, such as an ABU 6500, then you may want to use coasters. Use a good quality heat shrink from the butt cap to a few inches above the highest position you will use the reel. Finish the end of the heat shrink (above the reel) with a ramp of thread starting 1/4 inch from the heat shrink and overlap the heat shrink by 1/8 inch. If you are concerned about the reels base digging into the heat shrink or damaging the blank, you can add a second layer of heat shrink or use a self bonding tape such as Tommy Tape. This type of tape can be found in the larger hardware store in the plumbing department. Another name is Stretch & Seal. The use of coasters will allow to position the reel to a position that is appropriate for you.

That's one possible solution. I'm sure folks can come up with numerous others.

Don

in my pics I have one that has held up for years . Underwrapped then over wrapped with epoxy ends and middle then applied shrink wrap over the ends and went back over with a capping thread with one last coat of epoxy .I'm no pro but it has held up to my abuse. Just don't use the locking tab as a lever...

If you wrap over the "shrink wrap" I would assume you would have plenty of air bubbles or fish eyes. Thats what im thinking Not sure though.

I have made transitions between cork tape and reel seat and between cork tape and rod blank by building a thread ramp and covering the ramp with several coats of epoxy. There is no reason why such a ramp would not work with any type of grip or reel seat.
I begin the thread ramp with coarse thread evened out as smoothly as possible and whip finished. Then I saturate this ramp with "low-build" epoxy and turn it while it dries. Sometimes the humps need to be sanded down. A thin second (and sometimes third) coat of epoxy provides a smooth, even surface to wind a layer of tightly packed size A thread in my choice of colors, trim, or rod art. A final finish coat or two of epoxy and I have a personalized, unique, and durable ramp making the transition between two areas of the finished rod. A ramp wrapped with metallic thread has a subtle glow.

A nice surf rod grip can be made with cork tape. It makes a wonderful handle, that does little to increase the size of the grip.


Roger

Well, I just ordered materials. The rear edge of the original reel seat location measures 1.10". I will be using a fuji 30mm (1.18") reel seat (the original reel seat was a 30mm chrome plated brass seat). The rear grip will be x-flocked shrink tube (1.38") to a rubber butt cap. the foregrip will be a length of x-flocked shrink tube (1.38") terminating in an EVA Surf Grip. After reading many comments on the board I chickened out on the plate seat and felt that the rubber shrink would probably last longer in a sand spike or wedged between rocks.

One thing for certain - the shrink will be much easier to replace ....... frankly "wedged between rocks" scares me. Sand spikes are CHEAP - Bass Pro has light aluminum ones for something like $8.00. Not the best spikes out there for sure but WAY WAY better than a jetty rocks.

Handle came out good. The shrink is very tight. I am adding trim wraps at the transitions between the grip and shrink, shrink and seat and shrink and butt cap. The trim is to be yellow nylon mason's layout string with size D green (blank is green/gray) thread laid over the transitions between strings. I have two coats of spar urethan over the strings and will be overlaying the green soon.