Hello Everybody! I have a couple of newbie questions..........

1) Are the methods to decrease viscosity and increase pot life the same across brands of finish? I am using LS Supreme Hi-Build and would like to get some more time out of it or make it more manageable while working with it.

2) How many coats of finish should I be putting on? I am currently on 2 and I see some thread exposure still. Am I doing something wrong or is the normal?

Thanks for the help.

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/24/2011 07:20PM by Tony Wilson.

LS Supreme High Build is the thickest finish on the market. I can't imagine using 2 applications of it, although depending on how much you're applying that would be fine. It should take you less than a minute (way less) to coat a guide wrap. More than that and you're messing with the finish too much. It knows what to do - let it.

Read this - it may help you: [www.rodbuilding.org]

...............

You can thin the epoxy with a little denatured alcohol, and it will also extend the pot life. However thinning it is never a recommendation. If you still have exposed threads after 2 coats of High Build, you are not applying enough and or brushing it, which is again a no no.

For the lack of any better term...........what causes the pockmarks or sinkmarks that show up while the finish is setting up? I have watched closely, and didn't see any air bubbles. Is this just the "path of least resistance" and the finish is flowing to other areas?

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio

No, if the finish exhibits craters and holes, you have something on the wraps that is repelling the finish.

..............

Thanks Tom! Sounds like I need to take better care prepping the wraps before finishing. Pretty tough to do with my current setup in a shared room (dining room). :-)

Am I correct to assume that using something like a tack cloth will help pull any particulates away from the wraps before I finish them?

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio

Your tack cloth is possibly your problem. I keep my hands clean, thread stored properly and aerosols away from things. After finishing the wraps, I apply epoxy - no tack cloth, no alcohol wipe and no compressed air. Contamination is easy enough to prevent and epoxy application is easy enough to do. 98% of the time, "helping" things along is the crux of the problem.

I haven't used a tack cloth, I just thought maybe it would work. I thought wrong. :-) I build for myself, and might go a few days between wrapping and finishing.........is there a good way to clean off the wraps before finishing?

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio

I always use CP on my wraps to stop what you are describing. But I use Madeira.

The voids you describe are called "fish-eyes" and are caused by contaminates on the thread. It can be silicone if you are using other than rod wrapping threads or something introduced after wrapping. Oil from your hands or sprays used in the room are often the culprits.

If you have to leave the wraps for a while before coating, cover them with some thing clean and dry.

Just a possibility ........ dining room = furniture polish = "fish eyes"

If some one is cleaning furniture - even - near the rod, it will fish eye. Too bad you can not do it in a bed room where you can close a door and open a window - just - for a little while to air the room out.
I wax rods in the same room as finishing but after several days have no problem with them.

Every thing has to be supper clean even you. LOL

If you are not using CP thin out your first coat - or use a light finish, and it may help to fill the thread and get out any bubbles. Then another high build coat.

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/25/2011 08:48AM by bill boettcher.

You shouldn't have to clean the wraps before finishing. In fact, such cleaning is likely to do more harm than good.

When you're done wrapping, cover the rod with something until you can get around to applying finish.

..............

Light air or just a soft brush is all that should be needed. Some times I wet a paper towel - just damp -and while turning - lightly - go over the wraps.

Bill - willierods.com

I have found washing my hands with alcohol prior to wrapping takes care of all the problems I had.

After wrapping a rod, a magnified view of the wraps will sometimes show dust and or skin cells from wrapping. To eliminate the issue, I use the 3M blue low tack painters masking tape to tack off the wraps.
I have never had an issue with the low tack leaving any residue, and it does an excellent job to remove dust and other left behind particles.

Roger

You can thin heavy ls with reg or lite ls. I have mixed 3 to 1 lite to heavy 4 to 1 and half and half. All will make heavy easier to work with. It was an experiment and was happy with results. Bill

Tom, another thought. Are you carefully making sure ahead of time that your rod is perfectly level? You can purchase a very small, bubble level at most hardware stores.

Steve,
Why do you really care if the rod is perfectly level?
Are you worrying abou tthe epoxy running and sagging out of position during drying?

Roger

the rod being level is one of the first things learned when finishing a rod.
And yes finish like any liquid will run if on a slant it will run to the lowest point. When level it flows level

Bill - willierods.com