I just did my third Tiger Wrap, the first one really had a bubble problem, even though I used the alcohol lamp, the second looked like I got the bubbles out, with the alcohol lamp, used a magnifier to make sure they were out, but when the epoxy dried they were these little bubbles all over in the epoxy, then the third one I put a very light coat, then flamed it with the alcohol lamp then put the rest of epoxy on, it turned out really good, is there any special way to do epoxy Tiger wraps, or is there a better epoxy to use on Tiger Wraps then the Diamond 2 Iv'e been using, it works really good on guide wraps, maybe it's just me, the way I am putting the epoxy on, any suggestions will help, Thanks. Lorenzo.

With the layers of thread in a tiger wrap bubbles going to have to escape from under the thread. However the small bubbles are possibly being caused by too much heat during the flaming process.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Fred, is there any time limit that i should wait before putting heat to the epoxy?

Treating epoxy with heat can cause as many problems as it cures. I found that I can eliminate the bubble problem by using Threadmaster Lite for a first coat on each layer of wraps and then following with the regular Threadmaster. I also found that it helps if the Lite is warm to thin and help it penetrate. I know of some builders who also thin the epoxy with DNA for the first coats.

Pack and burnish threads also use CP. especially on the under warp.

Good Wraps Bob

I agree with Bob. If you use CP on the under wrap the finish can't penetrate the thread wraps and trap air. I always use CP on the under wrap and never have a problem with bubbles.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

I always use CP on any wrap that is more than one layer. Haven't had a problem since I started that process.

Still new to the tiger wrap, but my higest level of success seems to have occurred so far by applying the epoxy just after I mixed it and it's in its most liquified form. For me it seems to have soaked in quickly and the air displacement of the thread saturation quickly resolved itself (no CP used). I then give a touch up with the torch for any visable bubbles and let it do its thing.

I always use CP on tiger wraps. I tried doing it without CP one time and I didn't have good results. It has been especially helpful on the top layer of thread.

jeremy

We most agree that heavy coats trap air that results in to bubbles. So if you intend not to use CP. May I recommend applying a vary thin coat for the first coat. remove all excess, just apply and wipe off. Then wait 10 to 15 minutes and apply a second coat remove excess and wait another 15 minutes now fill in all the low spaces and leval out this should give you a nice even coat with no bubbles or waves. I like multi thin coats

Good Wraps Bob

Also the light finishes will release bubbles more then the heavy will.

Bill - willierods.com

I think I should clarify about my not using CP. My tiger wraps have been with metallic threads. I know that some say they can be tricky and they're right. when I first tried the tiger on a test blank I used several color combos to come up with the one that best matched the dominant colors of the rod. Thanks again guys for your advice!

With regular thread I would say that CP is important. Just to answer the question for myself I did a strip of yellow and black. When I hit it with finish, calling it subdued would be an understatement. I am in full agreement with what Bill says with light coats for the wrap. I am very appreciative that I was referred to this site. It has really sped up my learning process. I think my next target will be diamond wraps, and moving to learning to do weaves. Don't think I could have done it without you guys.