Is there something I am missing about getting the motor from my rod lathe apart to try and replace the brushes. I take the nuts off the screws and it starts to slide apart, but then sticks. Not sure if there is something else I need to do to get it apart.

On some motors when you start to slide armature out the brushes slip off the contact rotor and will close down on the shaft which might have a collar or something on it. Not sure you just need to try and look inside with a flashlight and see what's getting caught.

Mike,
Be sure that you don't have a retaining collar on the shaft itself that needs to be removed.
In many motors, to disassemble the motor, the motor body needs to stay in the armature when the motor comes apart. As a result, you may find it necessary to reach through the end of the motor, use a needle to retract the brushes, and then use a paper clip or similar wire to hold the brushes in the retracted position. When this happens the motor generally pops apart because the brushes clear the lower flange on the motor commutator.

Note, that after replacing the brushes, you will need to do the same thing to reassemble the motor. i.e. retract the brushes, against the brush springs, and then use a paper clip through the end of the motor case to hold the brushes retracted. Then, after reassembling the motor withdraw the retaining wires to allow the brushes to extend.

Note:
After the motor has been disassembled, be sure to lubricate the bearings on each end of the motor. Also remove the motor body from the case, and be sure to clean the motor shaft. Often oil will dry out and form gum on the motor shaft which tends to cause motor binding.

If you lubricate the motor do NOT use a common 3 in 1 oil or a standard petroleum based oil. These oils dry out and form gum.
Rather use sewing machine oil, gun oil, or automatic transmission fluid. All of these oils are non oxidizing oils and do not dry out and form gum and jam up motor bearings. My oil of choice for all of these applications is automatic transmission fluid. This oil is an excellent high detergent oil that does an excellent job of penetrating joints, lubricates very very well and does not dry out as a standard oil does. It is also very ecomomically priced. I always keep an oil can that is filled with automatic transmission fluid in the shop and house to take care of any routine lubricating needs. This oil also works very well for lubing car doors and latches, as well as door hinges and latches in the house.

Take care
Roger

Is the wire retained by a plastic bush in the housing?
If it is, then you'll need to release it.
Philip

If you go to Grainger's web site, select motors, then repair parts, you can enter your motors model number or select all models. When you view the parts list, many of them also have an exploded view, which can be enlarged. If yours does, it may give a clue as to what the obstruction is.