When I first started building rods I wrapped and used Flex Coat CP. After I used my epoxy I noticed about a month or so later many of the guides were loose, as a result I removed each guide and re-wrapped. I believe it was a combination of two things: one being in experience and a loose wrap - the other being the use of CP. I think it was more the wrap than the CP, but I havent used it since. I plan on using a Locking Wrap on my next build with micro guides which should help the effectivness of the wrap. My only experiences are with flexcoat epoxy - unless otherwise recc. I will proceed using this epoxy. What color preserver do you recc. and what is the best way to apply ad how much?

Also one last question, when applying epoxy what is the easiest way - I usually use a small brush to apply.

Jay,
If you are using micros- the use of a locking wrap really helps to keep the guides in place. As is always the case when wrapping, wrap the guides tight enough so that you can JUST BARELY move the guides for adjustment.

Some folks feel that the use of CP keeps the epoxy from penetrating, and gives a poorer lock to the rods. But the overwelming majority of rod builders that use CP all the time have no issues at all with loose guides. So, I expect that it is more in the tightness of the wraps than any thing to do with CP.

Flexcoat is used by many many builders with 0 issues. there are many other types of guide finich that are used daily - also with 0 problems. It is up to you.

Certainly a brush or other things can be used to apply finish. I personally use the medium sized disposable brushes for wrap finish with 0 problems.

Good luck
Roger

Jay,

Any problem I had with loose guides on my early builds was due to not getting the tunnels filled properly. Make sure you get them filled as best you can and have a little epoxy all the way around the foot, and you should be in good shape CP or not. I even went so far as to build one with epoxy only on the thread and not properly fill the tunnels and encapsulate the foot, sure enough a couple guides came loose within a season's use. It was a good exercise to prove to myself where the limits are for putting epoxy on guide wraps.

Joe

Joe what method do you use for properly filling the tunnels? Would a toothpick wwork for this. Guess thats one thing I missed out on durring early builds

The toothpick method just didn't work well with me, I couldn't keep my hand steady enough to work with the tunnels on micros.

I usually turn the rod so that the guides are off to one side. Then I'll push a little finish from the wrap just off of the end of the thread, and it will start to wick itself into the tunnel. Once one side fills up and there is a small bead behind the foot, I rotate the rodd 180 degrees and repeat the process on the other side. When you finish, the finish wraps itself around the foot for the most part. I'm sure others do it differently, but this seemed to work out best for me.

If you get too much finish behind the foot, just soak a small piece paper towel in alcohol, slide up to the edge of the mess and spin the rod one or two revolutions and the mess is usually cleaned up.

Joe

If i am 100% sure my micros are where i want them to be, i stand the rods up on their butts and use a toothpick and apply a drop of PG to the tunnels.Gravity helps it run into the tunnels. I repeat this every hour for a few times. For my own rods i then use PG as a wrap finish too. 4 or 5 coats looks good to me.But some cutomers prefer the look of the epoxy so when the PG in the tunnels is dry (at least 24 hours) i epoxy them. When that PG in the tunnel is dry those micros are going nowhere. Ever. That is a big downside to PG its very permanent. It can change the color of wraps so check first.
I only use flexcoat CP on trim wraps,snake skin, decals and to set feathers in place initially . Works for me.