Hello,

I am a new rod builder, working on spinning and casting rods (freshwater, light salt). I've been wrapping with size A thread and have gotten pretty decent at wrapping tightly and creating straight lines. Where I am struggling is the clipping of the tag end. I use a straight razor blade and put it right up against the tag end and pull it towards the blade. No matter how precise I try to be I still end up with little bumps once the epoxy has been applied. I read that I can take an exacto knife to those bumps but in the few times I tried that it hasnt looked clean.

When I look at experienced builders work it looks seamless. There is no entry or exit point of the thread. Thats where I want to be. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Adam,

When I trim the wrap, I pull the tag end toward the outside edge of the wrap causing a small gap between the threads. While keeping tension on the tag end, I trim the tag end in the gap. When you push the gap closed, there should be no nubs sticking up. A sharp blade is critical.

Joe

Get a sharp pair of scissors or even better, a good pair of snips-I got mine at Backlash Tools and they are fantastic for this task. When the tag end is pulled through, place the scissors or snips in position to cut. Before cutting, pull the thread enough to stretch it-winding thread, especially size "A" has a decent amount of give to it. When you have the thread stretched, cut it close, The tag end will usually be pulled under the wrap, leaving no burrs or bumps. If I do happen to have one, I take a disposable lighter and give it a quick pass over the "rogue" thread-don't hold it in one place, I don't like using razor blades-although you can arguably cut closer, there is no room for error. If scissors or snips touch the wrap, nothing happens-if a razor blade does, the wrap will cut and come spiraling off. All these little but important tasks, like everything else in the craft, get easier the more you do them. You can read about every rodbuilding topic known to man on this site or in Rodbuilder Magazine, but nothing but practice, trial and error will insure succesful execution.

Adam,
You can end your problems by the simple method of inserting your tie-off loop about three turns of thread earlier. Now when you have completed your wrap, insert the tag end into your tie off loop and pull your tie off loop snug to the wrap. Now pull just enough to to pull the loop underneath the one thread of the wrap. Now carefully cut off your tag end as close as you can to the wrap. Now when you pull your tie-off loop all the way through, the tag end will be embedded under the wrap and you have no tag end to cut. The only concern is to make sure that you don't pull the tie-off loop too far under the wrap. If you do, then you can apply what Joe and david suggested. By the way you can use the same process for your trim wraps--particularly if you are using one or two thread trims. Have fun.

Mike Blomme

Thank you for the quick responses!

I've been able to gradually get better with each phase but this is the part that makes or breaks my determined success of the build. If there are noticeable entry/ending points it makes my OCD go off. ;)

Two things have been said that I think will help me greatly in getting better.

1. Pulling the thread to create a gap between the threads that will secure the tag end. I've just been cutting as close the end as possible and not giving any "give" room. This should help a lot.

2. The trick that Mike suggested. I smiled when I read that it sounds so simple and effective. I'll definitely practice this method as well.


Thank you guys! Back to the hand wrapper!!

Adam,
Many years ago, I worked with a builder that used a pair of high quality thin tipped fly tying scissors to trim guide wraps. I went and picked up the same pair of scissor that I have been using ever since.
The advantage of using the scissor is that you don't have to worry about nicking a wrap by using a razor blade. Before using the scissors, I nicked several different wraps on different rods, trying to be very close to the wraps. Of course since using the scissors, I have never had a thread nicked. One blade of the scissors is always against the wrap so it is next to impossible to nick a wrap.

Also, when cutting off, be sure to put a lot of tension on the wrap. Then, use a tool to pop any remaining thread back under the adjacent wraps. Use the packing tool to work all of the wraps tight covering the cut end of the wrap.

After aligning the guides, I always go over all of the wraps with an alchol lamp to burn off any remaining nubs of thread, or fuzz from any thread that might happen to still remain.

You need to use caution when using flame on a wrape. If you hold the flame at any given point on a wrap, you can easily melt a wrap and have to start over on the particular wrap being torched. Just a quick sweep with the flame as the rod is turning takes care of remaining thread ends or fuzzies that might have happened to pop up during wrapping. Also, the heat tends to shrink the thread just a touch and actually tighten the thread on the blank. The slight shrinking of the thread is the reason that I wait to flame off the wraps until I have done the final guide alignment.

Roger

I use Mikes' way unless I forget!!!
Works great.
mikeb

Home Town,Gretna VA

Best thing ever found! [www.rodbuilding.org] Lifetime guarantee and free sharpening. I have two and alternate sending them in for sharpening every year or two, Less than $20 at Walgreen's Bill Stevens showed them to me at the big show a few years ago. I consider them indispensable

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

A pair of fingernail clippers works fine.

Mike Barkley Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Best thing ever found!
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> /photo/1174/cat/500/page/3 Lifetime guarantee and
> free sharpening. I have two and alternate sending
> them in for sharpening every year or two, Less
> than $20 at Walgreen's Bill Stevens showed them to
> me at the big show a few years ago. I consider
> them indispensable

I have to agree with Mike (again).

_________________________________________
"Angling is extremely time consuming.
That's sort of the whole point." - Thomas McGuane

Try one of the Dr. Slick fly tying scissors for trimming. It works much better than about any other method.

[www.schmidtoutfitters.com]

Roger

Thank you for the links! I'll look into the scissor suggestions as I've knicked a thread or two with the straight blade.

The MicroTip scissors look good!

Adam

If you still have issues after your first coat of epoxy is cured, trim the little tail off and hit your guides with a second coat of epoxy. I prefer 2 lite coats to 1 heavy coat. Finishes better in my opinion. shouldn't be able to see it then.

Adam,
I used to pull the whole tag-end through - tension - then part the thread where I want to cut and touch the thread with a scalpel (a new one for each rod) and then push the wrap together. Didn't have very many mishaps. But then I switched to inserting the pull through very early - maybe 15 turns. I use a very thin pull-through - 4# power pro. Then I cut the thread very close to the wrap - apply heavy thumb pressure at the pull through so that I don't pull the tag end down deep - and pull it through.
Herb

I also stopped pulling the tag end all the way through. I was cutting too many wraps and leaving too many bumps. Much easier this way.