I was told by a couple builders that metal or aluminium winding checks were not good to use because they could restrict blank movement or even cut into the blank if the action flexed that far back. They advised using rubber checks or O-rings. Thing I worry about is whether or not the epoxy I use to finish the foregrip trim wrap area is going to stick to that rubber. I would clean it with alcohol of course but wondered if anyone had done this and ever had a problem with the epoxy pulling away over time.

I never use a metal winding check for that very reason. My guess is , it could be a potential problem, therefore I never use them. Most of my builds are for tournament Bass fishermen and they are not interested in bling anyway. Just get the fish in the live well.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

I would only think if they are to -tight- onto the blank. Go one size larger and wrap thread of your color under and you should be good.

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,
With respect to the epoxy - no epoxy will not stick to either the vinyl or plastic winding check. So, when you cover the wrap, don't cover the winding check. Take the epoxy only to the edge of the winding check, not over it.

With respect to the use of a metal check. No issue at all, as long as it is not a press fit onto the blank. Use a single thread wrap under the check, and that will give plenty of flex room for the blank.

Take care
Roger

What Roger says is what we suggest to all our customers.
Go slightly oversize on the metal winding check and cushion the blank with a thread wrap.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Does anyone have proof or seen damage as a result of fishing with a rod with aluminum checks? Not from installing them, but from the flex, etc?

Just wondering if this is a "feeling" or something based in fact or by personal experience.

I've never seen this as an issue on JDM rods which use the checks and parts extensively. Or on custom rods for that matter...

The only place i ever heard it is from custom builders "who say..."

-----------------
AD

If you take a rod blank and drop a washer over it and allow it to come to stop, then flex the blank fully, the blank will break at the point where the washer resides. If you don't believe it and have a blank to waste, give it a try.

The thing about winding checks is that generally they are pretty far back on the blank in an area that doesn't see much flex or not enough to become an issue. You can always go oversize a bit and slide the check down on top of any trim wrap forward of the foregrip or reel seat. That gives you a tad bit more margin for error, but overall I'd say this isn't much of a problem.

...............

I've never seen one cause a break that far down on a blank, could happen if it's too tight. I have, however, seen epoxy stick to a rubber winding check....I'm looking at it now, my fingernail won't get it off...maybe I just use a better epoxy than some???

I must have weird epoxy because it totally coats and covers rubber winding checks with no problem.

I use epoxy (Threadmaster & Flexcoat) all the time on vinyl and rubber winding checks and to date (20 years) have never had a problem on no adhesion!!

Kevin,
I don't disagree that the epoxy coats and covers the rubber winding checks with no problem.
The statement that I said was the epoxy would NOT stick to the vinyl or rubber winding checks.
But, for purposes of the winding checks, that is not important.
Most rod builders either take the guide finish just up to the winding check, or up and over the winding check onto the rod handle itself. That is fine, because even though the finish does not stick to the winding check, the fact that the epoxy is up and flowing over the winding check and adhering to the rod handle, you effectivly have a very nice epoxy ramp with little or no shaping required.

Take care
Roger

Yep, I use it as an epoxy ramp on standups and take the finish to the edge of the winding check but not onto the EVA as it will wick down into the EVA and finish unsightly. I have stripped rods with the rubber check and had to peel it off the check. Maybe the checks I get are not coated with anything as they are a different finish than the smaller freshwater ones. That might be the difference as the smaller ones are shiny and these are not.

Kevin

Thanks guys. This gives me some options to consider.

I like to wrap thread over rubber winding checks then ramp with epoxy

The reson a Tight metal check can break a blank is due to when the blank flexes it ovals and if it ovals where the tight check is it will be restricted from ovaling and in a way crush where the check is. Doing what other have said and having iot slightly oversized and fitting it to the blank is the best way.