Been building for just over 6 years now and have always used gudebrod threads. I used a different brand of thread for a rod a few days ago and I have bubbles all over the finish. I put finish on the same way I always have. Never had the bubble problem with the gudebrod. The only variable is the thread, all other techniques are the same. The rod looks so bad that I feel I got to cut it all off and start over. Does the brand of thread affect the amount of bubbling?

Depending on the number of twists per inch, it could.

Another thing that can affect bubble production is temperature. In higher temps, bubbles form but quickly rise and release. In cooler temps, they take longer to rise and many never quite break the tension which exists in a cooler, thicker epoxy mix.

.............

Thanks, I'm indoors and maintain 72 degrees in the room I do the finish. I store the finish in the same room. I ended up cutting it all off and re wrapping the butt wrap. I'll stay with it this time and baby the finish with the torch. I thought it could be the brand switch, it was suppose to be size A but looked a tad thicker than the gudebrod A.

I read in System 3's stuff that bubbles in wood could occur when the wood was cool and then coated. The epoxy reaction would heat the wood & air bubbles could be released. Their soluition was to warm the wood above the temp that the epoxy would set and then coat. The substrate would then cool and the air bubbles would tend to contract and not be released. I plan on testing this with the "transparent" wraps I do with 000 silk. this wapping seems to let a lot of really small bubbles come out of the wrapping as the epoxy penetrates into the silk. I going to warm the wrap w/ a heat gun & then coat.
Just a thought.
Bill

You could try a light finish. Or thin your's .

I know but I do it and never had any bad results.

Bill - willierods.com

I had the same problem when my room dropped temp down to 65. The Finnish just slowed down to cure. To fix that i put 2 drops of denatured alcohol in my light build and all the bubbles rise to the top within 3-4 min.
herman

Craig,
If you think that the thread is the problem using your finish and your finishing technique, use CP and you will solve the problem.
The CP will seal the thread and you will not have any thread related bubble issues.

Roger

p.s.
If you want to continue to use the thread and your finish - justk add a bit of heat to the coated guides to get rid of any bubbles that might pop up. Don't use a flame - too difficult to control.
Don't use a hair dryer - too cold.
Rather, use a conventional heat gun as the type used for paint removal or similar applications. Easy to control the heat for just the right amount of heat. Never hold the heat gun on the guide under observation. Rather, just make a pass or two with the heated heat gun over the rod. The residual heat from the passing hot air over the guide will heat the finish, raise the bubbles and allow them to gas off. Keep a brush handy to pick up any drips. I also do this when the rod is turning on the dryer to insure that the finish stays uniform on the guide wrap.

If you don't already have a heat gun, get one. There are many many uses in rod building for a heat gun.

Just be careful in the use of a heat gun. If held in one spot on any type of finish, or even a rod blank itself, it can easily burn up, boil the finish, or even destroy the blank due to excess heat. As has been stated elsewhere - Moderation in all things!!

Along with Rogers` comments, you have to watch where you aim it too. It can stir up a lot of dust.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I use an old fashion soldering iron (not gun). I hold it varying distances under the wrap and the heat rises. If I want to get to a specific area on top of the wrap I place the iron over the wrap and gently blow the hot air down to the wrap with my breath.
Herb

Hey thanks for the replies. I used CP after redoing the wrap and it worked just as normal. I'm still kinda baffled about the bubbles though, oh well, I learned something new during the process so that was good. Thanks again for the replies

Craig

I have noticed that using color fast thread seem to "create or trap" more air bubbles than normal thread. I do not it that much but the few times I have it seemed that way.