What is you favoirte most durable high build rod finish thats easy to use?
On another note thank you for all the help you have given me! I am starting to build a few fly rods and am already planning on a building two halibut rods for Alaska. I think i got bit by the rod building bug big time. You have all been a huge help with all the silly questions i have had. I have watched videos and read a few books but i really value your opinions, much more so than the books. Thanks again
Kevin Gross

Kevin Gross
Many men will spend their whole life wondering if they made a difference. Marines dont have that problem - Ronald Regan

My favorite is Threadmaster. I use both the regular and the Lite depending upon the application.

I am another that has been bit big time by the bug in the last year. I was using Flex Coat for a while, but I had trouble getting all the micro bubbles out, so I tried Pro Kote. Pro Kote releases bubbles pretty well, but takes too long to dry. I start questioning whether or not I had mixed it right, but I would come back a few hours later and it would be hardened, but sometimes it would stay real tacky over 12 hrs by checking my plate I poured on. Lance at Swampland turned me on to Threadmaster though, and I love it. A good working time for me, releases bubbles well, and drys quicker for me than the other 2 mentioned.

I use Flex Coat UV high build.
At the beginning its hard to work with, many bubbles and very thick but after a few rods the final results are very good.
Abraço

Nuno

I use Flex coat and a trick that I have learned is to heat it before you apply the finish to the rod. Works like a charm.
I put the Flex coat bottles in a container with hot water to heat them.
Bill

I prefer Flex Coat UV high build, there is a bit of a learning curve but I get flawless results with it.

Walt Davenport
"Roadhouse Rods"

What makes Flex Coat UV harder to work with?

Kevin Gross
Many men will spend their whole life wondering if they made a difference. Marines dont have that problem - Ronald Regan

They all have their own slightly unique properties and ways to work with them. That said they all work well and do the same job. The best advice I have ever heard and passed on is find one you are comfortable with, learn how its quirks and how to deal with them, and stay with it.

What you have learned works well for one finish might not produce favorable results with the next.

I use Flex Coat. It's very easy to work with and never gives any surprises. The people who own and run the company are consummate professionals, which is not something you can say about all epoxy suppliers.

Sean said it all.
I have tried most all brands but I always go back to Flex Coat UV High build. I seem to handle it better than any other brand I've tried.

Now,,, If I am just finishing guides I can use any brand. But for decals and long wraps I have to use Flex Coat or I will mess it up every time.

As Sean said , I know the "quirks" Flex Coat and I handle them well, so that's what I use.

What are the reasons to use a High Build? My thoughts are a couple of coats of lite build are easier to work with. I guess my philosophy is to keep the build as low profile on the gloss finish as possible

That being said many of the products I have used have had bubble problems. I have used a spray product called "bubble buster" to help with that

I have also experimented with other options and have recently used "super glaze" and have been very happy with the results although this must have a different mixture because I can not use the bubble buster spray on this but if I blow on it through a straw tube all the bubbles dis-appear plus there seems to be much fewer bubbles to begin with

I'm a big fan of ThreadMaster high build finish.

High Build can be applied thinly, Lite build cannot be applied heavily.

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I have good results with Flex Coat Light and found out to mix it EXACTLY as the Flex Coat site video instructs and NO more bubble problems for me, (do not mix or stir too fast). I use the syringes to ensure accurate mix quantities and then pour the mixture onto a foil covered plate for the application. I use a brush and have not had any problems with the finish not coming out smooth. I heat both parts in a bowl of hot water before using which I believe helps with the mixing & application.

Some brands seem to have fewer bubbles than Flex Coat but , I don't worry about bubbles. After pouring it onto the foil covered dish I blow 90 % of the bubbles away with a straw. Then after applying the finish to the wraps I blow the rest of them away. Depending on how vigorous I mix the finish seems to determine how many bubbles I have. I also use hot water in a small plastic coffee can to heat both parts before measuring and mixing. It seems like it will mix with fewer bubbles if you warm it up a little.

What Dave just posted is exactly how I handle the Flex Coat high build. Also , I always use 2 light coats. I get perfect coverage that way.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Threadmaster, its the. Clearest I have found that dries like I need it to. I never have bubble problems. I'm intrigued to try liquiglass, guess I will have to wait for ICRBE.

I like the new prokote - slightly longer pot life and very clear.