For a variety of reasons, my work space is rather chilly (60 degrees or so), and this isn't going to change. Last night I applied a coat of Threadmaster Lite to to a blank in preparation for marbling. Well, after 12 hours, my control piece is still tacky to the touch. Before marbling, I want the finish to be tack-free, but, of course, it needs to be done before the finish has completely cured. Normally, I would do this well within 24 hours. How much has this window opened, or does anyone know? Does anyone have any guidelines for curing times in lower temperatures? Specifically, with Threadmaster Lite. Thanks.
Slainte,
Hunter

From ghoulies and ghosties,
and long leggedy beasties,
and things that go bump in the night,
Good Lord deliver us!

You can try some gentle heat from a hair drier or heat gun maybe several times Don't cook it or it will sag.

Bill - willierods.com

Just curious, why would you want it tacky??? Marbling is usually done with the base in a liquid state to get the colors to blend like marble

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Here [www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

Mike,
I think you misunderstand me. I don't want the base coat tacky. I want it to firm up so I can put on the next coat and add color pigments. My problem is that the finish is remaining tacky too long. I imagine that it is a function of room temperature. With that in mind, I am trying to determine how far open the windows are for applying the second coat. I would imagine that the normal 24 hour approach can be modified, just a tad. I am not sure by how much, though. Thanks to you, and everyone else, for the responses, though.
Tight lines,
Hunter

From ghoulies and ghosties,
and long leggedy beasties,
and things that go bump in the night,
Good Lord deliver us!

From about 70F, every drop of about 20F will result in a doubling of the set and cure time.

..............

Hunter,
Go to an appliance store and pick up a cardboard box that is used to go around refrigerators.
Take the box home, and use a box cutter, and tape to create a box that you can drop over the top of your rod that is being dried.
You can make the box so that you can lay it on the side, put the dryer inside, and have a side lid - held on by tape that will enclose the rod.

Then, just put a couple of 25 light bulbs inside the box for a bit of gentle heat and you are good to go. You will be able to take your 60 degree temps up to 75 or 80 depending on the size bulbs that you place in the box

It will cost you about $3 to add the lights, and the cardboard should be free. You might have to buy a roll of tape.

Have your temperature about 90 degrees, and you will be ready to recoat in about 6 hours or so.


Good luck
Roger

p.s.
Here are a couple examples of drying cabinets with heaters that have been made by other viewers:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Here is another link for some discussion and pictures of some different dryer cabinets>

[rodbuilding.org]

Thanks for all the information and suggestions. As it happens, things worked out okay. Tom, it was especially good to learn that little bit of trivia concerning curing times. Hopefully, I will retain that for a while.
Slainte,
Hunter

From ghoulies and ghosties,
and long leggedy beasties,
and things that go bump in the night,
Good Lord deliver us!

Put a piece of tape on your dryer and wright it on it.

Bill - willierods.com