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Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
Tom Dulan
(198.160.190.---)
Date: November 12, 2010 04:24PM
Hello all,
I thought it would be interesting to see what processes some of you use to laying down your finish. I know it must have been covered on the site many times before but I think I missed it. I’m now using D2 for all my finishing. I normally heat my finish a little to get it thinned out. I have been using those small plastic cups and measuring my D2 using a grain scale instead of those syringes. It works for me so far. I’ve heard of some guys like to put there finish on some aluminum foil or a flat surface to get the bubbles out. Some guys swear by those automatic mixers. Some guys like using a spatula instead of brushes. Properly an idiotic post but it is my first Re: Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
Ken Preston
(---.bltmmd.fios.verizon.net)
Date: November 12, 2010 05:00PM
Tom,
(Some will be aghast)... I measure the epoxy with syringes - normally 3cc or more at a time. I do this because I 'queue up' rods to apply finish on threads. I don't heat the epoxy but I'm working in a room that is 70 - 72 degrees. I squirt both parts into a plastic condiment container that I buy by the hundred from a local food service company. I mix the epoxy for at least a minute with a wooden craft / popsicle stick - you could say I whip or beat it because it's white with bubbles when I'm done mixing - almost looks like whipped cream. I apply with plumber's acid brushes that I buy (by the gross) from local plumbing supply company at SPEED (80-100rpm) after I apply at the guide foot. I keep the brush close to but not really touching the threads - just skimming the wraps. I think that applying the finish at speed you get the straightest edges and have less tendency to apply too much finish which can result in a wavy finish. I think also that applying at speed you take advantage of centrifugal and centripetal forces resulting in good thread penetration. When I have all the guides & wraps finished I go over them lightly with an embossing gun (crafter's low power heat gun) the heat and air flow from the gun eliminates any bubbles in the coating.. There was an excellent article in a recent Rod Maker issue on applying epoxy. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/12/2010 05:04PM by Ken Preston. Re: Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
William (Bill) Jones
(---.pool.starband.net)
Date: November 12, 2010 06:15PM
It is my understanding that the density of the resin and hardener are different, therefore you should not use a scale to measure the materials. They are formulated to be measured by volume, not weight. As Ken pointed out, the article in Rod Maker is the best treatise on application of the finish I've seen.
Bill Re: Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: November 12, 2010 07:45PM
Bill is right on
There were several posts of builders who measured buy weight. They after a time had finish that took a lot longer to dry. If at all. Try a search - It is measured buy volume not weight. Bill - willierods.com Re: Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
Mark J. Mire
(---.lf.br.cox.net)
Date: November 12, 2010 08:23PM
Measuring by volume is satisfactory, and as prior discussions stated, large batches produce good results while small batches increase the margin of error.
I use TM and get the best results by weight, small batch or large batch it's so consistent. I use a gram scale. Using weight as your measurement you can actually mix enough for one guide. Volume, well I'm sure some people...I can't! Weight is the best possible measurement for all epoxies. EVERY-TIME I have used the correct weight I received excellent results. TM: mix ratio by weight is Resin/Hardener 100/88 I do not have the ratio for TM Lite, thus I use volume. Thank you for your time, ~Mark Re: Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: November 12, 2010 09:10PM
I basically use the same technique as Ken's. I do make a point to mix for at least 120 seconds or two minutes.
I use disposable brushes that I buy for about 5 cents each. There is nothing at all wrong with mixing by weight as long as you use the right ratio. You can't get a correct mix, if you mix one to one by weight, but depending on the manufacturer, if you use the correct weight ratio for the particular manufacturer, it will be just fine. But, the thing to remember, is that for most rod builders who only finish one or a few rods at a time, the total amount of finish is really quite small. There is a considerable advantage in using a syringe: 1. Never have to clean a syringe. i.e. uncured part A or uncured part B - from the bottle or can will not harden in the syringe, and the syringes only need to be cleaned on a very sporadic basis. 2. Very little waste, because you can very easily adjust the amount of mix using the syringe for the particular job being done. i.e. a few guides or many guides. I have tried using spatulas, but after lots of practice and jobs, I gave it up, simply because I could do a much better and a much quicker job with a disposable brush than a spatula. Good luck Roger Re: Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
bill boettcher
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: November 13, 2010 10:47AM
I guess if each is measured but volume and then measured at weight and recorded, you would still have a one to one mix. Bill - willierods.com Re: Finishing Epoxy procedures
Posted by:
Fred Yarmolowicz
(---.hsd1.nj.comcast.net)
Date: November 13, 2010 06:15PM
I guess if you weigh the full bottles and compare the weights and them create a formula to convert it to weight instead of volume it wold work . But Why? Need to purchase a scale . Just measure with the syringes and all is well . Been doing it since day one and NEVER had a concern. Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte) Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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