In the past I have found your older publications to be a wealth of information to help me out when I get stumped. What I'm looking for is one that may help out on choosing a blank or just plain throwing one out. Now I'm not talking about power, line weight, lure weight, and so forth. I'm talking about the construction of the blank and what to look for, I bought my old custom rod builders stock out from him(he fell on hard times) many of the blanks he couldn't remember what they were,this was no big deal. The blanks were older China blanks I thought I could build up for some youth rods. When I started placing these on my table under my glass I started to notice what appeared to be bad hot spots up and down the blank, I also noticed a sharp distinct line in the glass long ways where it was put together not the smooth transition we have with our rods now days

Basically what I'm looking for is some information on what to look for in the building of the blank and what to stay away from. I hope I was able to put my thoughts into words right where a person could understand me

Gulf Shores AL

Some of what you want can be found in Volume 12 #6 in the article on determining the causes of rod breakages. Jim Upton (Seeker) Jason Brunner (St. Croix) and Gary Loomis (North Fork) spelled out what actual manufacturing defects look like and how to spot them. If you have that issue give it another look - towards the back of the article.

.............

I'll have to read that again myself. I question if some of the concern is related to more and more blanks having no finish on them. You see more things now, especially on composite blanks, that used to be hidden from the naked eye.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Paint does hide some flaws.

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Some of what you want can be found in Volume 12 #6
> in the article on determining the causes of rod
> breakages. Jim Upton (Seeker) Jason Brunner (St.
> Croix) and Gary Loomis (North Fork) spelled out
> what actual manufacturing defects look like and
> how to spot them. If you have that issue give it
> another look - towards the back of the article.
>
> .............


Thanks I just ordered it.

It is kinda of a scary thought of some of the blanks we have built on and passed along not knowing what might have been hid under a pretty finish

Gulf Shores AL

Tom,
In addition to the above, posts, I will first do a physical exam of an unknown blank and then do a very SEVERE flex test for the full length of the rod, in virtually all directions.
i.e. I will do flex tests at 0 - 90 - 180 and 270 degrees for the tip, mid, and butt section of each rod, after physical exam to insure that I have no field failures. I don't want to spend a minute of my time on a rod blank that will end up breaking on the first or 2nd cast after being finished.

The reason that I do the flex text in all directions, is that some blanks have a pretty radical difference in flexing ability in one direction compared to a different direction. Again, I want to dig out any of these flaws before I spend any build time on the rod.

If a rod, cracks, or fractures during the very heavy flex test, I will take my chop saw, and chop the blank on the spot by the break, I want this blank positively eliminated from any potential use as a blank. The blank pieces may end up as repair stock, or simply be transported to the garbage. But, the rod will not be left in the shop intact, due to a possible later build and unhappy client.

Roger