I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

REPAIRING FIBERGLASS ROD
Posted by: Wayne Hofer (---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: October 20, 2010 02:41PM

A friend gave me a 6-1/2 ft. hollow fiberglass spinning rod to repair. Six inches of the tip broke off at the first guide.. a nice clean break. The ID of the rod at the break is about 1/16." Should I splice the break with a rigid insert, some kind of sleeve, or put on a new tip-top at the break and end up with a 6' rod with altered action.

SInce the break is at the first guide, I'm thinking that a rigid insert or sleeve may not alter the action all that much.

If an insert or sleeve .. what material?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: REPAIRING FIBERGLASS ROD
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: October 20, 2010 03:07PM

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: REPAIRING FIBERGLASS ROD
Posted by: Wayne Hofer (---.hsd1.ca.comcast.net)
Date: October 20, 2010 09:03PM

In his article, Ralph repairs a graphite rod using a fiberglass sleeve, the idea being that the sleeve must be lower modulus than the rod material. To repair a fiberglass rod, would I need a lower modulus sleeve material than the fiberglass rod? What could that be?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: REPAIRING FIBERGLASS ROD
Posted by: bill boettcher (---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: October 20, 2010 10:36PM

Correct me if I am wrong but I would think a soft and more flexible piece of glass would work
Graphite would be too stiff.

glass rods are cheap. maybe build him another rod ??
but find out how it broke and why ??

Bill - willierods.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: REPAIRING FIBERGLASS ROD
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: October 21, 2010 04:08PM

Wayne,
If the handle or guides are special, I might consider cutting the rod at the first guide.
Then, obtain another glass blank, and trim it to the length so that the cut section of the handle end of the existing rod matches the new blank.
Or you could even let the new blank be slightly larger so that the new blank simply slips over the existing rod by about 3 inches. Then, simply glue the two sections together, and tie guides back on the new blank.

By making the splice at the first guide, it would essentially be invisible and by using a blank with a tip action that you like you would likely end up with a longer rod, simply due to the overalp and match, but you would have a perfect rod, wtih out the work of gluing up a handle.

Roger

Also, by making the splice at the first guide, you will have virtually no effect on the overall action of the rod, due to the typical stiff section of the butt and first guide section of most blanks.

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster