I just put a good coat on Thread master thinned on some base wraps for tiger wraps I am testing colors on, at 11:00. Buy 5:00 it is dry to the touch And it is very cool here Tomorrow it should be hard enough to put the top threads on

Bill - willierods.com

Phil,
Most of the finishes that I use have at least a 5 minute working time. Some longer, if you keep the mix thin and cool.
Roger

After reading the posts yesterday I decided to go ahead without trying to thin it. By the time I got to the next to last guide it was already alomst to thick to work with. I guess, like Tom said, I spend too much time trying to get every nook and cranny covered. I will try the wider brush. I know it didn't take me more than three minutes or so.....I think. I hear some people talk about going back to make sure there are no thin spots and touching them up....how in the world could you go back? They must be really fast......I need to extend the POT time somehow.
I warmed the epoxy up before mixing and used the small aluminum pans that Mudhole sells, I thought that would help. Should I try the aluminum foil instead? I can't tell you how much I appreciate the advise....I'll get there eventually....Ron

Actually I think I've found the problem....I'm using a 9 or 11 rpm drying motor to turn it whiile I'm applying the epoxy......I think it needs to turn quite a bit faster.

You can coat all the guides in just a couple or three minutes. At least you should be able to do that.

Unchuck the rod from the dryer and turn it by hand while you're applying the finish. Then once all the wraps are coated, go back and touch in any areas you missed or do anything you feel needs doing. Then chuck the rod up and start turning it.

I'm guessing you don't take RodMaker Magazine and haven't read any of the finishing articles.

..................

I will try turning it by hand and see if that gives me more time. I'm sure it will be faster......thanks.

Actually I've just started doing this and haven't looked into it yet. I guess it's time to get it. Ron

It will be faster to coat while turning Make yourself a hand rest out of a piece of wood or a scrap blank to rest your hand on and steady it.

Bill - willierods.com

In the past I always had my rod turning in the dryer. After reading a by Tom I tried his method. To my amazement My edges came out crisper and the foot balls were eliminated. It took no-longer by hand than having the rod turning. Going back and correcting problems dropped to none as a rule.
Thanks Tom

Good Wraps Bob

Roger, My question was because I know of no finish that has that short of working time. Most have 20min or so.

I put it on turning Then when all are covered I stop the turner, correct any Bo Bos wipe off excess, Then start it turning again.

Bill - willierods.com

Ron, Check out the library button here on this website,and read: Improving Your Epoxy Finish.

Greg, I went and read the article you mentioned. Thanks, and thank you, Tom. I think I'll try something different next time. I'll know in a day or so, I'm doing a spiral wrap for a friend.

If you are doing a butt wrap along with the guides Try doing just the guides or butt wrap separately.

Bill - willierods.com

Ron, a few suggestions from another beginner.

1) Warming your epoxy results in shorter pot life. There is no reason to do this unless the epoxy has gotten cloudy.
2) You are using a finish that is known to have one of the shortest pot lifes. Consider a light formula and/or a different brand.
3) Try starting at the tip of the rod. The largest guides can better handle a thicker finish.
4) The faster you can turn the rod while putting on the finish the better your results will be. You can turn it plenty fast by hand. Having another person help allows you to have two hands and that never hurts. A hand rest is required.
5) Do pour the finish out on a flat surface. The thinner the epoxy is the longer it takes to set up.
6) Room temperature is everything when it comes to pot life. I often have to apply after work. AC has been off all day and it is at least 90+ degrees. I don't want to turn on the AC for fear of dust. A few of the tips above have helped me a lot. Now if I could just stop dripping sweat on them.
7) For bubble busting use a drinking straw and blow on the finish. It is carbon dioxide, not heat, that breaks the bubbles. Blow them out when you first pour the epoxy onto the flat surface and again after all wraps are completed.
8) I do best using a little extra finish, hand turning a couple of times, letting it sag on top and bottom to fill tunnels, and then wicking off the extra. I'll hand turn once or twice more and carefully inspect. A spotlight with a hot bulb aimed close helps the epoxy thin and flow over the area I wicked off as well as to see any "problem areas".
9) When it is right put it on the turner/dryer setup and walk away. If necessary you can wet sand out mistakes but any more attempts to fix things at this point will go wrong. Be SURE to clamp the dryer securely. Nothing like jumping up to answer the phone and knocking the whole nine yards over. It is something that will happen. Do check every so often to insure the rod is still turning. Power goes out and motors fail. The results can be ugly.

And last but not least......find a product and a procedure that works for you and stick to it. 99.9% of all problems are caused by deviations in procedure. Sometimes this can be as weird as using a new brand of razor blade and not wiping it with solvent before using. And whatever you do ban furniture polish from the rod finish area or you will have a devil of a time.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russ,
When coating in a high heat area, take the time to wrap a sweat band around your head. This will keep the sweat out of your eyes, and will keep the drips from falling on your rod.
REW

Thanks Russell, lots of good information. I copied and saved it.
I guess my seeing and hearing of people heating the epoxy must have been because it was colder at the time and they had to bring it to room temp.
I'm so glad I found this site......going to make this a whloe lot cheaper.......not having to do every thing by trial and error. Ron

Russ I apply a lite coat on the first application of finish I just want to lightly cover the treads. This will allow a better thread penetration. Once all the guides have been coated I go back and give it a second coat. and remove all excess finish. You know when you have to much finish, there will be globs on the bottom. These glob should be wicked off

Good Wraps Bob

Ron -

If you are only getting 3-5 minute pot life something is awry. My first suggestion is to try a different brand and a lite version. I'm currently using a medium build epoxy and it works very well for me. I used another brand that was high build. I had trouble with footballs and the finish thickening towards the end. I still think that vendor makes great finish, but I just happen to like the newer finish better. That's why they make several different brands. You can buy very small packages of syringes of each of the mfr's epoxy. Why don't you try a couple different brands? Test the pot life, the thickness/thin-ness, etc. Get a scrap blank, put some simple wraps in a bright color and mix up a couple of different batches. You decide for yourself which brand you like.

Todd