Hi All,

What is the main reason for burnishing and thread packing?

Is it more for aesthetics, structural or both?

The reason I ask is that I am doing a fly rod for the first time with SF wire fly guides and a Forhan locking wrap, and some of the guides are giving me a little trouble. I have packed and burnished the best I can, but there are still some gaps in the thread.

Is there a special technique/tips for SF wire fly guides, so they look like the thread wrap on SF spinning guides.

It doesn't look too bad, but as I am very particular, it is bugging me at the moment.

Also is it best to pack and burnish as you are wrapping, or wait till the end.


Thanks,

Richard

Both.
We should differentiate between burnishing and packing though.

Burnishing "polishes" the individual threads into one continuous layer of smooth thread, while packing aligns the threads making for a stronger, more compact wrap.

I don't pack as I go along, as I find that it just makes the wrap uneven. I make sure that the thread is pulled at a slight angle across the wrap as I turn the blank so that each thread lays down tight next to the previous one.

The above approach should keep most of the gaps from forming in the first place, but my way of removing any that do form is to leave the tag ends free on both ends (after being pulled through) so I can pull out any slack as I pack and burnish (this is especially important with polyester thread like Madeira because it stretches quite a bit). Once I am satisified with the wrap I trim the tag ends.

Hope that helps.

Walt Natzke
Ripon, CA

May I add, in most cases if do not pack (pushing threads together and burnishing (making the threads flat) when you put the finish coat on and it dries you well see gaps between the threads. The finish acts as a mini magnifier

Good Wraps Bob

Bob is right on ! any imperfections will be magnified as soon as the epoxie hits it. Just take your time so you have no over laps or gaps between the thread.

Walt is on the money too. If you don`t have a burnishing tool, you can use anything round and smooth .


Bill,

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Richard,
Like Walt I work at a slight angle so the thread lies next to the previous thread. However if I see a gap as I wrap, I use my thumb to close the gap. I use a heavy Fly Tying Bodkin as a burnishing tool. When you do the Forhan Locking wrap, a gap sometimes occurs with the loop around the shaft of the hook. my burnishing tool has a sharp point, and I can use that to close those gaps as well. I hope our ideas help you.

Mike Blomme

for tool, any thing smooth, flat and has no sharp edges I use Chop sticks! I bevel the big end to a degree that allows me to pack me to pack. the ones I use are kind of square at the handle end. Minne are also made of a plastic material and shape easily on my grinder or when using a file. Hint before shaping I stick them in a freezer over night that keeps the temperature down and the material well not get hot and curl when grinding

Good Wraps Bob

As stated above, packing and burnishing art very different. I build only fly rods and use SF wire guides extensively, and find them are no harder wrap well than other types.

I do pack as I wrap to be absolutely sure there are no gaps between the thread. I burnish only afterward when I have completed all the wraps. One exception is when I have metallic thread trim wraps on the ends of the nylon as I find burnishing metallic can be risking problems.\

Also as covered above a smooth metal or plastic rounded surface is best for burnishing so as not to raise fiber in the thread as you rub.

Phil,
I agree with Phil.
With respect to a packing or burnishing tool, I would suggest that you use a non fiberous material for the tool.

i.e. Don't use a wood burnishing or packing tool. The reason that I suggest this, is that when I used wood sticks as a burnishing tool, tiny wood fibers would work off of the tool and get into the thread as I worked. The wood fibers were in the thread to stay after that.

Rather use a plastic or metal tool, with non sharp edges. Any very sharp edges run the risk of cutting the thread.
One exception, is that I also use a fine needle point pick. I use this pick all of the time when I am wrapping. I always use it on the last thread loop, as I am pulling the locking thread tight. I put the pick into the locking loop as I pull it tight and it keeps the loop from twising and causing a knot as I draw the loop tight.

So, when I am using the locking wrap on the guides, I use the point of the pick to pack the threads in and around the guide foot The wider broader, duller packing tool that I normally use will not work in these close quarters of the guide foot - especially on the back side where gaps can occur.

As the other posters have mentioned, keep your wraps tight as you go, and then you don't have to pack very much. I generally keep about a 15-20 degree thread angle against the preceeding wraps to insure that the next one lies tight. When you are working up the guide foot, you sometimes have issues, there because it is sometimes necessarly to slightly loosen the tension of the thread to get a wrap to climp the foot. But then after the first wrap is on the foot, you can normally retighten the next wrap.

Good luck
Roger

I will try all the suggestions.

Thanks All,

Richard

Speaking of burnishing thread when wrapping, are the Clemons Teflon coated burnishing tools (or reasonable facsimile) still available? I'm trying to get started back at this after 25 years away and I've found all my tools but my burnisher. I've still got boxes of components and other assorted stuff to go through so there's hope but I'm pretty sure all my tools (except obviously the burnishing tool), went in the same box with my wrapping stand, and so far I've had zero luck finding another one on the interwebs.
If I can't get a replacement for my old tool, any rec's for a similar replacement? Thanks in advance for any and all help comments and suggestions.