I am using Pro Kote for guide wraps. What is the best practice between coats. Should I wait 12 hours, 24 hours, or would a shorter time be acceptable. After about 6-8 hours it is still a bit sticky, not much, but I doubt it would sag after this amount of time. Could a second coat be applied to that, or should I wait until it is drier?

Clinton

As long as you are positive it won't sag that should be enough time.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

What does the company say? In most cases you can apply a second coat after the first coat is tacky. As for sagging how are you turning your rod? I apply a coat of finish in sections. First I lay a coat on top, hand turn the rod a 1/4 turn add a coat, turn the rod another 1/4 turn add more finish do this till you are back on top. I do not flood my wraps with finish. Next look at the bottom of the wrap, wick off any excess finish that globs on the bottom. Now I turn on my drier motor and let the rod turn for 5 minutes , then I reverse the direction for another 5. Then I stop the dryer and watch the bottom of the wrap. If globs appear wick them off and restart drier. Now look for high spots on wrap and remove any that you see. This is in my opinion the hardest part of rod building, getting a good smooth finish

Good Wraps Bob

A little off topic, but i'm wondering what you think of your pro kote? I saw there their yellowing comparison on mudhole and it looks really impressive. Have you been using it long enough to comfirm that it stays clearer than other finishes?

Jason I have never used Pro Kote. My comment was for applying finishes in general. I think the stuff is kind of new I would do a sample and let it weather out side for a month and see what happens or send Todd Vivian a email at Mud Hole and find out if they have had any comments PRO or Con

Good Wraps Bob

Hi Hason:

It is very good, very clear, and goes on easily. Unfortunately, it is all that I have used, so I do not have a comparison. The comment about testing it outside is a good one, as well as asking Todd at Mud Hole. If I have any difficulties with it, I will be sure to post it here.

Clinton

Hi Bob:

I like your technique and will give it a try. On my butt wraps, which often have a build up of threads so there are high and low spots, I have a hard time leveling things out...even after three coats. Your post suggests to me that I may be "flooding" the wrap with too much epoxy. Any additional toughts on how to level out those high spots?

Clinton

Clinton What I do with butt wraps is fill just the low spots first, let it spin on my drier for 5 min then cover the entire rod. while rod is turning, Do not flood. Now turn of drier. Look at the bottom of the wrap. wick the blobs to the low areas, do this in 1/4 turns. turn drier back on. By looking horizontally at the bottom of the wrap you can see any waves, now fill up those low spots. Once the finish has set and you still have waves, let the finish set for a couple of days. I now use a Utility knife and lightly scrap the high points down level with the low areas (careful not to cut threads). When the wrap looks level, last step lightly scrap any shiny area. Now give the wrap a light coat of finish and you should be good to go.

Good Wraps Bob

I get the general picture and will be trying this. But a couple of questions. How long do you let the drier run? Okay, you say you fill the low spots and then let it spin for 5 minutes and cover the whole rod. With Pro Kote, the set time is very slow. So, you fill the low spots, but if you then cover the whole rod, you are also going back over the low spots which may take out some of the fill in the low spots. Now, you turn off the drier and rotate the rod and move the sags to the low areas and then turn the drier back on. How long does the drier run now? Maybe I am overthinking this, but I am definitely interested in perfecting a technique here...as I do a lot of butt wraps...sp I will experiment.

Clinton

I let my drier run all night or till it is no longer tacky

Good Wraps Bob

To check use the cup you mixed the finish in, not the rod itself.

Bill - willierods.com