OK, there must really be a secret to use of Perma Gloss. I have tried multiple times to use this and find it virtually impossible to get a flawless finish. I've tried multiple types of brushes and tried wiping it on also. With brushing you just don't seem to get that nice level finish over the entire length of the rod, and with wiping it seems impossible to apply enough to get the shiny finish.

So does anybody have suggestions on technique? Has anyone ever sprayed the finish on?

My inclination is to start using a 2 part automotive finish and to spray it on. Has anyone got any experience with durability or use of automotive clears as a rod finish? Will it crack on the part of the rod that flexes the most?

I have used Duracoat for about 3 years...no problems. It is a paint that is used on guns. I use an air brush with a #3 tip.

You don't want to brush PermaGloss, particularly at this time of the year.

To wipe it on, you must have a cloth or foam brush that is very wet with PG. If you take some PG and put it in a plastic cup or small glass (if you use a cup make sure it won't be eaten by the PG - some will) and then take a foam brush and push it down into the PG, compressing it so that when it springs back it will absorb even more PG, you can make a swipe down one side of the blank, then spin the blank 180 degrees and repeat. You can get a really nice finish this way and it'll be very smooth to boot.

...........

If you were to use automotive clear us a quality PPG or Dupont finish . As to using an automotive clear I think it would fracture after some use or even a big fish . I am an automotive painter by trade . Paint can only deflect so much before cracking aka fractureing . And once that happens and water get under the finish it will never stop peeling till you strip it . Also paint finishes need a certain mill thickness to be affective or fallout could occur such as discoloring ,chipping ,peeling and so on . And flexing over 25 degrees and you would probably be in trouble . These are just my incites I am a novice builder and have not tried this method but from my experience i dont think it would work . Also dont use laquer products because water can and will penetrate them . I do have some friends that are paint reps i could ask if they have any products that could benifit you .

Lets go wash some lures .

I have used the Glasruit line of automotive finishes with a flex additive on several rods that I have built. Just saw one today I did for my dad while fishing. It was done 4 years ago and still holds up well. No cracks or chips. My dad also is the hardest on his equipment than anyone I know. It goes in the trunk with all the other stuff uncleaned and stays there till the next trip. Breaks my heart to see it all slimed up but ti still catches fish.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You don't want to brush PermaGloss, particularly
> at this time of the year.
>
> To wipe it on, you must have a cloth or foam brush
> that is very wet with PG. If you take some PG and
> put it in a plastic cup or small glass (if you use
> a cup make sure it won't be eaten by the PG - some
> will) and then take a foam brush and push it down
> into the PG, compressing it so that when it
> springs back it will absorb even more PG, you can
> make a swipe down one side of the blank, then spin
> the blank 180 degrees and repeat. You can get a
> really nice finish this way and it'll be very
> smooth to boot.
>
> ...........

U DA MAN! That is one type of brush I did not try!

Now, does anyone know of a reasonable way to remove old Permagloss beyond sanding? Stuff gets hard after a while!

Will the flexcoat cups survive permagloss?

No! They will not! Try a small shot glass,metal or ceramic rammekin from a restraunt instead.

There is also LumiSeal . More forgiving them permagloss.

Bill - willierods.com

PermaGloss is a diffucult product to master but it can be done. I have found nothing that will give me the finish I want that is any better. I have used it as a rod refinisher, thread coating and many times on wood grips. There is a learning curve and once you figure out the idiosyncracies of it you can do a good job. Tom is right on when he says use a foam brush for rod coating. I plan on trying Lumiseal soon and hope it will do as good a job for me. If used on wood I've found that 3 coats are the optimum for me.

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You don't want to brush PermaGloss, particularly
> at this time of the year.
>
> To wipe it on, you must have a cloth or foam brush
> that is very wet with PG. If you take some PG and
> put it in a plastic cup or small glass (if you use
> a cup make sure it won't be eaten by the PG - some
> will) and then take a foam brush and push it down
> into the PG, compressing it so that when it
> springs back it will absorb even more PG, you can
> make a swipe down one side of the blank, then spin
> the blank 180 degrees and repeat. You can get a
> really nice finish this way and it'll be very
> smooth to boot.
>
> ...........
Tom, I'm going to try the foam brush application, when I turn teh rod 180 degrees, do i wet the brush again?

Can someone tell me what spray clear i can use on a rod for a hard finish, I have friend who don't like to use teh PG or anything like that, so I will inquire for him, so please if there is an answer to this I would like to know. Thank You!