I work in my garage which is probably my biggest problem since it is not temperature regulated. My epoxy will not level out no matter what I do. I have tried 3 brands and get the same results so I don't think it is the products fault. I am guessing I have a temperature problem. Early in the morning it is around 76 degrees in the shop but by the end of the day it gets to 90 degrees. Also, I have a terrible time with bubbles. They won't pop with heat or the new stuff "Bubble Buster" from Mud Hole. And some pop later and leave a depression. Any word of wisdom will be greatly appreciated.

Do you have RodMaker Volume 9 #1? If so, it will solve all these problems for you.

Dispense with bubbles by not creating them in the first place. Get a level finish by moving quickly and allowing the epoxy to do what it knows how to do, automatically. Don't put too much on - this is the general cause of wavy epoxy.

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My shop is, for all intents and purposes, outside. It's on a screened-in porch with clear plastic roof panels. It is unheated and not cooled, except by nature. Typically at this time of year, it's 75 degrees first thing in the morning and gets to the mid to high 90s during the day. Thunderstorms are the norm most afternoons.

That said, I have to tell you that I do not experience the issues with finish you are reporting.

Bubbles are, for the most part, a mixing issue. They can usually be easily eliminated before application to the wraps, and the few that remain are easily dealt with. As far as evening out the epoxy, the ONLY time I was unable to apply epoxy due to concerns about curing was this past January, when temperatures dropped into the high 20s at night and only rose into the 40s during the daytime. That wouldn't have kept the epoxy from curing; it just would have taken a lot longer, increasing the chance for contamination by dust.

Right now the temperature in my shop is 94 degrees. There are 2 rods drying, and I anticipate no issues with the epoxy. I have used Flexcoat, Palm Beach, Aftcote, Threadmaster, Mudhole's new mid-build finish and Diamond 2. All level and cure equally well. I believe you need to look elsewhere for an answer.

Rick I never have a problem with bubbles and humps. Here's how I do it , make a comparison to how you do it.
I use regular build and use 2 coats, doesn't matter what brand, although I am using Flex coat with the UV protectant at present.
I run hot water into a container, a small plastic coffee can works great. Set the bottles of finish in the hot water and let them warm up for about 8 - 10 minutes.
I pull the finish from the bottles with a syringe and mix in a graduated mixing cup with the handle of a plastic disposable brush.
I then pour onto foil ( shiny side up) in a flat bottom saucer. I then blow all the bubbles away with a soda straw, except for the very tiny ones and they disappear when I put the finish on the wraps.
I apply a thin coat, just enough to cover the wraps. Don't brush it on, wipe it on. Do it quickly and go on to the next one. On decals and butt wraps I apply the finish long ways, except for the ends where I apply with the rod rotating.
After getting one complete coat on I then let the rod set with the guides up for about 5 minutes. I then wick the sags off from the bottom of the wraps and rotate 180 deg. I then take the soda straw and gently blow away any bubbles from the newly wicked off area and let it set again for about 8 minutes. After about 8 minutes , it looks good , no sagging, then put it in the drier and rotate until dry.
After it has been rotating for about 15 minutes I stop it with the guides up and look for any bubbles that have formed at the base of the guide leg. If there are bubbles I blow them away with the straw. Continue rotating until dry.
I'm sure other folks use a different technique, but this works great for me. You must develop an application technique that works and you are very comfortable with. If you are not comfortable when you apply finish, you will do nothing but make a mess. Don't fight it, don't mess with it . Put it on and go to the next one. Most likely you will add a second coat anyway.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

A few things that should help

use a light finish. Thinner and bubbles leave easer,

Check out that issue Tom spoke of. I think it is where you put the finish on while turning, after all is covered - butt wraps are done separately - at least for me, Stop the turner, let excess start to drip, remove the drips, turn 180, I set my guides right and left so finish does not clime onto the rings, let drip whip off, do this several times then start the dryer.

I find that any bubbles that may appear a drinking straw helps when you blow on the finish with it. Do not let any of you saliva get onto the finish LOL

Bill - willierods.com

Bill,

No, that's not at all what the article covered. Applying epoxy and getting good results is much more simple than that.

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I got to look and see if I have that issue ???

Now I wonder if I missed some thing. Never had to do the poor on foil thing, never needed it.

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/21/2010 03:28PM by bill boettcher.

I do have RodMaker Volume 9 #1 I have just reread it and I always let the finish sit with the guides up and remove the sage on the bottom.

I mix my epoxy in the (I forget the name) turning mixer thing for 3 - 5 minutes. I apply the epoxy with a spatula (bought from U-40 folks) at a Rod Show a few years back. I never experienced this problem until this year. I will try to apply a thinner coat and not worry about all the threads being covered completely until the second coat. Maybe that will help.

I appreciate all the reply's and advice. Tomorrow will an experiment day with epoxy.

Thanks

Don't let the epoxy sag on the bottom of the wrap - you'll note per the article that such sags are the beginning of an overall wavy, lumpy finish. This is why the article mentions not to allow that sag to get started if you can help it.

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I thought the article instructed you to let the rod sit and allow the excess epoxy to sag onto the bottom where you then remove it and then start the actual rotation?

Peter,

Absolutely not. Read the article again. Sometimes I think folks look at the photos and fail to actually read the text.

Allowing epoxy to sag on the bottom of the wrap is one of the worst things you can do if you want a perfectly smooth and level finish. Even if you remove the sagging portion, it's still already heavier at some points than others. This is exactly what you don't want.

If you'll follow the instructions in the article, the epoxy won't sag to the bottom - that's the whole point.

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Rick,

Allowing the epoxy to sag on the bottom is likely your problem. With hotter weather, the setting time is going to be less. At 90F the set time will be just 1/2 of what it was at 70F. By the time your epoxy has sagged and you remove it, it's too far along in the process to reflow evenly.

Don't let your epoxy sag. Read the article again. I think it will fix things for you.


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I have had a case of the sags, and I don`t mean just my belly. lol

With the rod in the dryer and turning at low RPM , I gently hold an old credit card against the guide and let the rotation of the rod take off the excess. Of course this will work only before any set up occurs.

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Rick -

Are you putting any of your finish in the freezer?

Just a thought....

Rick, answer this question; do you paint out of the cup?

Kevin,
Sorry top take so long to reply - Yes, I use a spatula out of the cup. I mix with the PacBay Mixer and immediately apply the juice. 5-6 minutes at best before start to finish.