Ok, first attempt at epoxy ramps with 10 minute Rod Bond was not successful. I think I got intimidated by it in general, and I wiped away the Rod Bond pretty quickly. Is there a step by step tutorial or back issue of RodMaker that covers this? This is my first rod, so I don't have a lathe to build anything or winding checks to use (unless I purchase separately now) as a base so I am somewhat stuck with the Rod Bond, I think.

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio

Or, maybe there is a rod builder in the Cincinnati area that wouldn't mind me watching over their shoulder. :-)

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio

Tony I use regular Rod Bond. You got plenty of time to shape it. Let it set up about half way before you start shaping it. I use a small metal spatula dipped in water or alcohol to shape it. After is gets hard you can use a small triangular file to smooth it down even more (don't touch the blank with the file). Wrap it with thread from the bottom up. When you get to the top with the thread, right against the reel seat, stop wrapping, leave the tension on the thread and dab just a little crazy glue where the thread comes off the ramp. Let it dry then cut the thread loose even with the wrap. You are done, now finish it like you would a guide wrap.
There are other ways to do it. This is how I started doing it and I feel comfortable with this method.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

Just finished up. :-) Nerve wracking!!!! :-) I love this relaxing hobby! :-)

Thanks!

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio

I just did these for the first time myself. Rod Bond 10 or regular stunk for the ramps for me. 30 minute devcon or Flex Coat is what I used. After it cured, I sanded it down and wrapped over it and had no problems. [www.stripersonline.com] YOu can see the pics, these are SW rods with DPS 20 seats, migh tnot be what you are building.

What do you use to sand them? I might need to a little, but not a lot. I was really working to get it perfect, which I know isn't needed because I will be wrapping it up.

Tony Wilson
Cincinnati Ohio

I use Quick-bond and a finger dipped in alcohol to shape. I found out even that stuff will drip after alcohol has been applied to it if not rotated. Comes out perfectly smooth and no need to sand. I've been doing this for even really tiny ramps in place of winding checks lately and I like it a lot better. FWIW.

Steve

Sand with....sandpaper, lol. Dosn't matter because you're wrapping over it,you just want a flat base which is coencentric to the blank.The shorter & steeper the ramp, the harder it will be to wrap as the thread tends to slip off and back down.

I tilt my turner up ward. As it turns I just lay finish on. The faster the turner turns the better it will hold the finish. Then i can tint some finish and put on a final coat or wrap thread over it.

Bill - willierods.com

Take a step back and think about what you are trying to accomplish. If it is a way to get your hands comfortably in contact with the blank to maximize sensitivity, given that sensitivity is feeling what is going on at the end of the line, consider turning a ramp from foam reel seat shims, painting them with the color of your choice (ivory looks great under a feather inlay), then just coating with regular thread finish. Light, look great, easy. They can be integrated into the spinning reel seat shim function easily. For example, consider a two piece reel seat shim, one the forward half of the shim and the other the back half. The split line is centered under the reel seat, and the front has the integral ramp, and the rear has a similar ramp that is smaller so it doesn't interfere with the reel seat nut function. Put one in from the front, the other installed first, sized so it slides down the blank to the right spot and epoxied in place, the reel seat slid over it and epoxied, then the front half slid down the blank and epoxied into place. Use an 18mm seat for most spinning rods..

I find these to be very comfortable, very sensitive, classy and different from most rods. I'm surprised more haven't taken to them.

To add. the graphite arbors match seats pretty good. Easy to sand and cheep. Well inexpensive And Pac Bay makes black ones

Bill - willierods.com

Tony, I live up the road from you in Monroe. If you need more help with epoxy ramps email me at jonschrock@aol.com and I will get in touch with you when I build my next ramp.

B-flat epoxy ramps serve their purpose and look a bit better than purchased polymer winding checks.

However, if a plain black thread ramp or an epoxy ramp is covered by tightly wrapped and burnished metallic thread or with flashabou and overcoated with a thin layer of ordinary guide wrap epoxy, then the ramp will glow with a subtle fire in direct sunlight - a nice touch for a custom rod.