Do you have to use CP with Madeira thread, or can you super thin epoxy down and re coat a few times before a full finish?
I only ask because I can't get CP here in New Zealand but can get the thread ( crazy but true )

Cheers

Rod Mederia has a silicone type finish. I would us a CP. You can try a clear sealer coat wood finish, water base

Good Wraps Bob

Thank you Bob
Yes I thought as much. Of course I could get some from the retailers in the US but I just bought some products
and really don't want to just order CP ( It would need to be a decent order to make it worthwhile to ship) also I'm impatient when it comes to starting a new rod
It's my mistake for only ordering NCP

Cheers

I have tried using Elmer's Wood glue - Thinned with water. Almost like flex coat. It has worked.You do have to thin it or it gets that cloudy white look to it. Three coats about. Sets fast.

Experiment.

Bill - willierods.com

Well that is something I can get here Bill, thanks
I'll test it out and see how it goes. Got a few old rods floating around

If you can also try the wood sealer that Bob recommended.

Bill - willierods.com

I for got to mention their is a product artist used to save paintings it is called Fixative it is used to seal and protect protect art work in Charcoal, pastel, pincil drawing, I use it when I sign my work so when I put a finish on it will not smug or wipe off

Good Wraps Bob

What ever you use in place of regular CP, I would first test it on a scrap blank or on the butt where the grip will cover it, before you try it on your rod. I think "Krylon Fixitive" will behave the same as finish as far as preserving the color, though I could be wrong.
Kerry

Thanks
I guess most water based sealants should work? as long as they are transparent.
I have been looking at Art supplies and there are a few Fixatives/sealers to choose from

You can use Madeira thread without CP to do tartans only. I have done a few. Gee, it amazed on how many people say "you have to use CP because you will get fisheyes". A few other builders can also do the same too. As always, I would recommend to try it on a scrap before you wrap it on a blank.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Very nice wraps Jim, well that is interesting they look really bright and clear
I will test without CP also. I use light build finishes on Saltwater rods so there tend to be a few more coats anyway

Cheers

You can use Madeira without CP. It can be a little tricky but it can be done. I just finished my 4th rod using Madeira and NO CP. I really like the look too. Madeira with CP + Madeira without CP = about 750+ color combos ;) Photo session this weekend & then you can see.

Steve

P.S. One major builder / supplier I talked to said he regularly uses Madeira without CP also.

Steve

With out CP how is the finish applied. Most all say it will fish eye ?

Thanks

Bill - willierods.com

Bill I have at times got away without using CP. What you have to remember is that Madeira is a sewing thread and most sewing threads have a added ingredient applied so it well pass through a needle with out sticking or fraying.

Good Wraps Bob

Yes that is primarily why I want to use it. The range of colours.
they also come in groups of shades I believe which is handy.

Rod

Yea then a really good customer has his rod - fish eye - I don't need that.

And i guess no one is going to tell me how they apply there finish so they don't get fish eyes ??

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/28/2010 05:51PM by bill boettcher.

Here is another photo of a tartan done with Madeira. Bill, just apply a thin coat and keep an eye on it. Make the treads show on the first coat. Not real hard to do. I used the Diamondite finish that gets cured with a bulb and heat for this one. It sets in an hour so 3 beers and it was done. [www.rodbuilding.org]

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

I do get fisheyes. I just deal with them in a way that suits me. Many times I don't get any. I slather on a coat of finish, usually lite variety, just as it starts to thicken, I brush off as much as I can. A second coat of Hi build usually gets the job done. If the second coat has problems, then I brush it down to a thin coat, wipe with alcohol after it cures and then follow with a third coat of lite.

This all sounds like it builds a thick coat of finish but it doesn't if done right. It is entirely doable with great results and a flawless final finish. I am going to set up to try to take some really good photos this weekend since I need to anyway. I will be sure to post the pics as soon as possible. I will be the first to say that my method is not the most efficient but it can result in a finish as good as any other if the situation calls for it. Feel free to email me if you would like.

PS, I am seriously considering adding a silicone based epoxy fisheye eliminator to the finish to see if it makes it easier. In theory it sounds viable.

Steve

Proof

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I hope more people start to do this & someone finds an easy way. ;)

Steve

I covered my maderia with CP and then Permagloss. Let it sit for a couple of weeks and came back with epoxy. No troubles.

Pesco Ergo Sum