Wondering if anyone can help me again on here.
I'm looking to build a power wrapper based on the Pac Bay and will be buying a base, deluxe chuck and possibly a thread carriage fairly soon.
I have a brand new sewing machine motor and control pedal and looking to get hold of some detailed photos/drawings on how the motor is fixed in place on the commercial ones.
Can anyone help?
Cheers,
Phil.

Phil,

The Pac Bay machine is basically running a sewing machine motor. Their motor mount (available as a replacement part) holds the motor by it's two case/housing screws and spaces it the correct distance from the driven pulley for use with their o-ring type belt. The same mount also holds a drying motor spaced to run off the same belt by simply removing it from the wrapping motor and slipping it on to the dryer motor pulley. I'll be at the shop in about an hour and can measure the center spacing for the wrapping motor screws. Your motor will more than likely bolt right in.

Something else that you'll need to do is get a rheostat in line between the foot pedal and the motor. Sewing maching motors are high RPM (too high for wrapping) and the rheostat will allow you to slow the RPM's down to a resonable level.

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Thanks mark, that's really useful info and I'll look forward to the centre spacings.
You say the motor mount is available as a replacement part, do you know where I can maybe get one or even copy it?
I've seen the rheostat switch in their catalogue so looks like I'll be needing one of those as well.
Regards,
Phil.

Also you have to consider your pulley sizes

Good Wraps Bob

Hi Bob,
The sewing machine motor has a 10mm arbor (18mm OD), drive pulley fitted to it which I guess is pretty much standard?
Phil.

Phillip,
The motor mount is easy to make.
Simply take a piece of 1/8th thick aluminum or 1/16th steel.
Make a pattern out of thin cardboard, trace it onto the metal, cut it out with a jig saw, drill the holes and you are good to go.

Actually the mount looks like a Y so to speak. Make the base of the Y to act as a mounting strap and wide enough to give the motor good support.
The top bars of the Y will curve around the motor and hole will be drilled into the the top arms of the Y to mount the motor.

Then, simply bolt the motor to the Y strap, and bolt the base of the Y to the headstock for the power wrapper.

A really nice way to go for headstock and chuck is to pick up one from Taig. These are mini lath high quality parts that give excellent long life service:

[www.cartertools.com]


Also, if you look at the pictures in the catalog, you can get some good ideas for mounts, etc.

Take care
Roger

The screws are centered at 52mm/2.047". The drive pulley is 8mm at its small O.D. (where the belt sits), so obviously the Pac Bay pulley's not going to do you any good. If you don't have a pulley, you should be able to pick one up at a sewing machine shop. It will probably be in the 12-13mm range at it's small O.D., so you'll have to modify the location of one of the motor mount holes to get the belt tension right. It's going to run your chuck faster than the "stock" motor/pulley combo assuming your motor RPM is the same, but the rheostat will take care of that.

We stock the motor mount and rheostat. No mounts on the shelf today, but they're on their way. S/B here Mon/tues. here's a link to the parts, go to the bottom of the page. []

Mark Griffin
[]
C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Phillip,
If you would like a different option:
Here is a picture of a headstock that I use some of the time on my power wrapper:

[www.rodbuilding.org]
This one uses a 24 volt dc motor, a pair of 1/2 inch bearings mounted in a piece of nylon which drives a keyless commercial chuck.
In use, I simply insert a piece of solid blank material into the chuck, and then insert the blank material into the base of the blank. This works just fine, as long as there is no butt cap on the rod.
I prefer using this for all of my new buildes because you have no chuck clamped to the outside of the rod handle, you never have to worry about the chuck coming loose from the handle.

Then, if I need to work on a finished rod with a butt cap in place I use this one:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is a Taig Headstock along with a Taig 3 inch chuck being driven by a 24 volt DC motor with a toothed timing belt.

Take care
Roger

Phillip,
If you are going to use a standard sewing machine motor for your wrapper, you will have a better unit that you you are happier with, if you make a jackstand with a double pulley reduction.
By that, I mean that you have your sewing machine motor - with its small pulley drive a large pulley on a jack shaft. Have this pulley at about 4 or 5 inches. Then, on the opposite end of this jack shaft have another small pulley about the size of the pulley that is on your sewing machine motor.
Then, have this small pulley drive a large pulley on the end of the headstock.
Many power wrappers have a pulley reduction of about 10:1. By using a jackshaft, you can get a speed reduction of 100:1. When you use the typical sewing machine motor that runs at 6000 rpm, a 10:1 reduction gives you a rod speed of 600 rpm.
But with a 100:1 reduction, you get a rod speed of 60 rpm. The nice thing about the slower rpm is the abilty to have great slow speed operation, which is about 80% of all of your wrapping needs. i.e. starting wraps etc.
About the only time that you are in a position to really open up your wrapper and put pedal to the metal so to speak is for long butt wraps on the bigger rods. Of course, that is when it is nice to have a speed of 500 rpm. Then, you can get your butt wraps done in a hurry.

Good luck
Roger

Hi Roger,
Am I right in thinking what you call a jack shaft I would call a lay shaft?
Phil.

Phillip check your email also posted a picture under equipment

Thanks Ron,
Great picture
Regards,
Phil.