Duane,
I couldn't agree more.
Actually I think that if all of the different line manufacturers stopped making line except for a single manufacturer who made a decent grade of mono line that ranged from 2 lb to 200 lb test - the number of boated fish would not change drastically.

Also, there would be many more $$$$$$$$$$ in the pockets of fisherfolks who change line types, brands, etc. etc.

As with any man made product. advantages, disadvantages etc. are all subjective.

But in this day of instant information - we sometimes get too hyped to the latest sales tactic.

It is also interesting to see that it seems that some line manufacturers tend to cycle line. i.e. they will have a specific line out for a few years, stop manufacture of the line, and then a few years later come out with line - that for all intents and purposes but has a different name and is thus able to draw new sales. Marketing folks are clever. That is why they keep their jobs. It really doesn't matter to a manufacturer if a particular product is better, worse, the same - or just has a different name. The only thing that really matters to a manufacturer is this: Does the product sell so that it will meet required margins and investor dividend requirements.

Take care
REW

Again - mono floats, braid floats. Flouro sinks. It is denser - it may transmit vibration more but I won't use the word "sensitive" on this board anymore. ;)

When I pitch a little jigworm 20 or 30 yard up to a curly leaf cabbage edge in deep water I don't want my line floating on top while my bait is dropping. That's just me - so I want to find a flouro that works on spinning gear. It sure isn't 8# Berkley 100% so I will try the ones mentions here a few post earlier. I use baitcasters - don't get me wrong - but a jigworm is a good numbers bait in our natural lakes in MN.

Chuck:

We all have our own favorite techniques. I DO want my line to float and to be highly visible while my bait is dropping. If it pauses I strike. I think this visual technique is widely used, and for those who do braid is preferable to fluro.

My tourney friend is using Trilene 100% 10 lb. fluoro. The 10 lb. size is likely not going to change, as the SB811 is fairly powerful for a shaky-head rod, IMO. I'm afraid that 8 lb. would result in a number of break-offs. Anyway, my first step is to buy a spool of Seaguar Invis-X and have him try that. If that doesn't totally fix the problem, I might suggest dropping to 8 lb. Invis-X and a lighter drag setting, though that'll likely fall on deaf ears. The idea of switching to braid/fluro. leader is a lost cause--I've already tried it. If the line change doesn't work, the next step is to cut off a couple of guides, then replace them with slightly larger sizes.

At some point, I'll likely build him another spinning rod. Next time, I'll have a reel AND his fluorocarbon spooled up before I start test casting.

Thanks for all the help.

Andrew, I doubt he will go for this either but consider a copolymer line. I fish salt water with yo-zuri and feel it is much stronger than its rating. He might fall for the notion that it is fluro on the outside so invisable. Nice and limp and it does seem to have better abrasion resistance.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Andrew;
25-10-5-3.5-3mm's to the tip (and sometimes smaller runners) is pretty much the standard setup for the rods I build (unless building a braid dedicated rod in which case I will start with a 10mm stripper).

And after almost 5 years of using all floro on these setups, personally I've not had a single problem or complaint from others using floro on them.
I use 10lb most of the time, some 6, and 8, and occasionally 12.

Lines I use
P-line (both their standard and Halo type)
Vicious
High seas
And Seaguar
Result of lines is that Halo performs the best and Seaguar being the stiffest is a little more difficult to work with. But will still cast.

You may ask him to bring you the setup and another rod that he is using that he thinks performs better so you can compare the two. Could be something else going on with this set up that he is not seeing.
Look it over good and have him cast the two of them a bit. You maybe can pick up on the problem before you do any unnecessary work.

It could be something as simple as the line running around the blank between guides. I’ve done this before and spent part a day wondering what was going on with my rod before seeing the problem



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/01/2010 12:37PM by Steve Gardner.