I would like to know what everybody likes to use to pack thier thread I need a better tool and have to do a better job of packing. Also when I am packing wraps they sometimes slide off the end of the guide foot especially on the tip section of the rod.

Thanks
Mike

Mikes Custom Fly Rods

Check this one out. Best one I ever used. It has a knurled handle for easy pickup off the wrapping bench.
[www.backlashtools.com]

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2010 05:30PM by Jay Hunt.

For guide wraps I'll have the thread coming onto the wrap at a slight angle to keep it tight against the previous wraps, tugging every few wraps to tighten up (I hand wrap), and using my thumbnail every half dozen or so wraps. For large wraps I'll also use a regular plastic packing tool every dozen or so wraps, for small wraps I'll use a bodkin once I get near the end, and I'll pack the threads toward the point where I started the wrap. Once the wrap is tied off I'll pack the end with my thumbnail and then use the packing tool to burnish the threads well to flatten them out and get rid of any pattern created by packing every so many wraps. Cut off the tag ends, burnish again, one final pass at lightly packing the ends with my thumbnail and the wrap's ready for CP or finish.

With dark thread on a dark blank I hardly have to pack at all. I pretty much just keep the thread tight as I go along and the burnishing is enough to close any visible gaps. With more contrast between the thread and the blank I'll have to use more packing. With really high contrast like white thread on a black blank I'll paint the blank to match the thread or I'll use silver/gold metallic paint if I want a little sparkle.

Check out this thread tool that Billy Vivona has. I have been using this tool for a few years now, I love it. I have tried the others, but this is the one I like best.

[northeastrodbuilders.com]

For guide wraps I don't know why you need a packing/burnishing tool. I just use my thumbnail when neccesary, maybe every 5-10 turns. For Decorative Wraps the tool Sean mentions is perfect.

Go to your local CVS or large drug store and look in the nail section. I have used a tool that is used for cuticles that has a plastic body and has a pointed end and a round curved end. It fits in your hand perfectly and is much easier to find on your bench than the small packer tools. I have never found anything easier to use. Mine is made by Cutex if that helps.I would post a picture if I could figure out how to post. Good luck







Bob Moody
Ambler Rodcraft

I just use a cut up credit card. Cut it into a 1/2" strip

One tool that is a nice thing to have is a 1/16th piece of piano wire that has a needle tip on one end.
I use this tool all of the time when I am wrapping. I first use it - to hold in the loop that is left, before I pull the wrap tight. Depending on the wrap, it is possible to have the loop start to twist badly. By inserting the piece of piano wire into the loop and holding it taunt as you pull the loop through the wraps, you prevent loops and knots from forming in the thread.

Then, after using a conventional burnishing tool for doing the bulk of the packing and burnishing, I will use the needle end of the wire, to take care of locking wraps that are in front of the guide foot and need to be packed back into the guide. Also, any other tight areas that a conventional packing tool won't pack - the piano wire will take care of just fine.

Take care
REW

p.s.
When I form the needle end on the piece of piano wire, I use my 1X30 inch belt sander to form the point. After forming the point, I then make sure that I do the final shaping and needle sharpening, by having the belt sander run down the lenght of the wire towards the point. This results in any sanding marks to be running parallel to the length of the piano wire. The need for this, is that when you use the wire to hold the tie off loop taunt, you want to be able to slip the loop down the wire to the needle point, off the point and have it disappear under the guide wrap. By having the sanding marks running parallel to the length of the wire, the guide wrap thread loop, easily slides down the length of the wire.

Conversely, if you have shaped the needle point on the wire, by sanding or grinding at right angles to the point, the sanding and or grinding marks in the wire will be at right angles to the length of the wire. Then, when the taunt guide wrap loop is on the wire, it will tend to catch in these right angle fine grooves and make it difficult to slip the loop off the wire.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2010 11:00PM by roger wilson.

Generally I use my thumb nail. This way it is always right there when I need it. Unless If I have been stressed lately and I chewed it down to a nub. Then I will use a knitting needle if I can find it on the bench LOL

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

The tool that Billy has is the only one I have used, no need to even look at others. I do use mine for wraps though, I find it easier than my fat fingers :-)

DR

I couldn't help but notice that no one mentioned that the guide feed should be ground and honed to keep the angle going up the food not so steep as to cause the thread to slip back down making harder to wrap and stack the wraps. Also doing this will make the tip of the foot flexable with the blank and help to keep the finish from eventually cracking at the point where the foot meets the blank. So far I have not seen any acceptable factory preground feet. I do this on all my guide feet and it sure makes wrapping easier. Lon

GUides come preground, and they are very easy to wrap without grinding them any more. I stopped grinding guides a couple of years ago, I'm not telling anyone else righ from wrong, only that it's not hard to wrap up teh preground guide feet straight from the factory.