Pros?

Cons?

Thanks

Richard,
I have made many many things with Balsa over the years, and if you pick the right density wood, it would work just fine. Balsa comes in many many different densities- all of the way from punk soft to nearly as hard a pine.

Depending on the density of the wood selected, it will be easy or difficult to carve.

I would think that - if the right density is selected, it would work very well as a handle. I also think that if the right density is selected - it will be a bit more difficult to shape than a comparable piece of foam.

But - once shaped, and covered, it would make a nice long wearing handle for a nice fishing rod.

I would think that the weights of the handle - with the right wood density - would be similar.

The one thing you will find is that - unless you have the wood on hand - the cost is likely to be quite a bit more with the balsa - compared to the foam as a handle material.

Balsa, is somewhat like cork - i.e. - it grows on trees, and the world wide supply is becoming more and more limited- hence the increase in cost.

Take care
Roger

Balsa will have higher crush strength than foam and more shear strength as well. As previously mentioned, it comes down to the density of balsa you can get.

Great core material - even better if you can find very light balsa.

All of the strength really comes from the carbon skin.

I've not seen any balsa that was anywhere near as rigid as the 8lb foam.

I think a lot of people aren't really familar with the type of foam we outlined in the articles. This stuff is very rigid, and if you move to the 10lb and 12lb stuff you have something that's hard to dent with even a hammer blow. This isn't "spongy" foam. It's rigid.

............

Since you are going to cover it any way why not just find some cheep cork handles

Bill - willierods.com

Bill - I have covered cheap cork in the past and have, overall, been happy with it. My chief concern has been that it seems to weigh a lot.

Another question I have is one of sensitivity.

Common sense would dictate that more rigid materials would provide more sensitivity (holding density the same). When does this difference in sensitivity become perceptible, and is there a spectrum of sensitivity when comparing foams of different density, cork, and hollow graphite tube handles, amongst other options?

In a nutshell, I am looking for relative sensitivities of different handle materials and the reasons for those differences in sensitivity.

Thanks,
Rick



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/05/2010 01:58PM by Richard Glabach.

Sensitivity. --- Over Rated ! You want this. hold the line with a finger. Direct line to the hook and fish.

Don't over think this. It will drive you crazy.

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks - currently working on my sanity as I enjoy a take out dinner

Happy Friday
Rick

Richard;
To some sensitivity is over rated.

For others like my self;
Depending on the type of fishing done, the type of fish being targeted, and the type techniques being used, sensitivity is paramount.

If you are looking for the most amount of sensitivity on that rod?
You might want to consider using the balsa or foam as part of the molding process only. Then eliminate it altogether after the handle is formed.


Mr. Kirkman is correct about the structural integrity of the foam being more substantial then balsa.
As to your last question about relative sensitivities, I’m not sue there is a chart that measures comparisons between these materials.

I can give input on what is relative to me, Bill may not find these relative, so you will have to make choices depending on what is, or is not important to you.

On top water rods sensitivity is a non issue. I’m watching or listening for the strike. I will use cork or EVA because its softness is easier on my arm as the handle’s butt tends to slap against it as I twitch.


On everything else I’ll use carbon because of its increased sensitively. With it being basically the same material that the blank is made out of; not as much vibration is lost as when transferring from one type of material to another.

Some times on rods that for me require to utmost feel. (Shaky head and such light line type finesse techniques) I will even eliminate; reel seats, arbors, or anything else that could deaden feel. Merging the blank right to the tubing and wrapping the reel on tubing same as the guides are wrapped on.

In order these are the things that IMO rob a blank of sensitivity with the first being the worst, (others may disagree).

1 Masking tape (arbors)
2 Cardboard (arbors)
3 Light balsa woods
4 EVA
5 Cork
6 Larger guides then will effectively do the job
7 Foam (arbors, or under graphite handles)
8 The stuff we like to use to make rods pretty; thread warps, decals, trim rings (whether thread or metal)

Granted we like these things and some of them are necessary on certain rods, and with some fishing were they hit like a freight train it doesn’t mater. But they still have the same effect of deadening the vibrations traveling from the bank to the fingers and hand.

You also have to take into account that this reply is coming from one of the driven crazy



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/06/2010 02:08PM by Steve Gardner.

Thanks Steve - this is a very handy reference.

Much of rod building for me is the opportunity to experiment. You have me curious about using foam as part of the molding process only, eliminating it altogether after the handle is formed. Can you point me to any reference material?


Perhaps this striving for perfection is an counterbalance to my chaotic work environment :)

Your input is much appreciated.

Rick

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