Hi,
This is my first post so go easy on me guys.
Have started to build my first fly rod and have now reached the stage of whipping the guides.
Finding it a tad tough going with getting the tag ends to stay put and not unwind. Have had a look at some ideas and come across a suggestion to dab a small amount of CP glue to help hold them in place.
As I live in the UK, I've not heard of CP and was wondering if someone can tell me what it is and where I might get some. Also would it not stain the thread?
Regards,
Phil.

Phil

Shoot me an email if your still having trouble after this. When you start your thread coming off the spool and over the rod blank. Cross the thread over once so it looks like an X. Now take the tag end(dead end) and wrap it around the blank and guide foot several times. Keep pressure on it by pulling it. At the same time rotate the rod so the thread from the spool rides over the dead end. Wrap about 5 times then you can release the pressure from the dead end and cut the tag. Continue wrapping and pack your thread as you go. Insert your tie off loop about 5 turns from the end.

You may just be a tad loose on your tension. A hard thing to explain. Snug not tight.

CP is colour preserver. You can use it to hold your trim bands but you shouldnt need it for a one colour wrap. I put a dap on the crossover point when using the nail knot technique.

If you meant CA glue its "crazy glue"



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2010 08:58AM by Scott Bazinet.

CP (color preserver) is pretty runny and takes awhile for it to dry, so you would have to hold the tag end in the CP for a long time (about 20 minutes or more) before it would grab the tag end.

The method I use is to hold the tag end down with a piece of masking tape. You can see a video of this on Mudhole's site under rodbuilding 101>scroll down to videos>Part 5. It technique is basically using a piece of tape to hold down the tag end above the guide ring. Then rotate the rod a few times as you work the thread down to the toe of the guide. When you get to where you want the wrap to begin, double back and start wrapping towards the ring of the guide. When you have 5-6 wraps down, you can remove the tape and cut the tag end. The video shows this much better, but it is quick and it works.

Phillip,
One can use an X thread to hold the tag end of a guide wrap but many folks find it much more convenient and more reliable to simply use a bit of masking tape to hold the tag thread end.

As you get into rod building, you will find it to your advantage to have masking tapes in widths starting with 1/8th, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 1/2, 1 3/4 and 2 inch widths.

During the course of a few weeks of rod building the typical builder could have ocassion to use all of these widths.

I will use the 1/8th inch width to hold small guides in place prior to wrapping. I will use the 1/4 inch width to hold large guides in place as well as to hold tag ends of thread while wrapping.

I will use the other widths to tack off the blank and guide wraps prior to finish application.

After wrapping a guide you will find that generally it will have dust, skin cells, and general stuff accumulated on the wrap. Often, you need to look at the guides under intense light and magnification to see the stuff that accumulates on the wraps.
The use of a light tack masking tape - like the blue 3M tape does a wonderful job of removing this junk without leaving any adhesive residue behind prior to finish application.

I will use the other widths when working with blanks and the lathe to build up mandrals for handle work and or handle work.

Good luck
Roger

Thanks Guys, there's some really usefull information here and I'll be following it up.
Regards,
Phil