I got bored this week and decided to give marbling a try. I'm trying to follow the online tutorials that I have found on YouTube and the PDF by Putter. Here's what I did on my first try:

- Mixed my epoxy, high build flexcoat
- Poured a little finish out onto tin foil in nickle size dabs
- Mixed 8 drops paint pigment (from a hardware/paint store) into each dab,
- Applied the normal, clear epoxy to the wraps
- At 15, 35, and 45 minutes after flexcoat mixing, I applied the colored finish to the wraps. A little drop here and there, spread out a bit w/ a toothpick. I was testing how 'stiff' the colored flex coat should be before application.

On all 3 applications (15, 35, and 45 minutes), the ink seems to have run out from the 'colored' flex coat and bled waaaay too much. I was applying this finish to bare threads, not over pre-epoxied threads.

So what do you think the problem might be? Too much ink mixed into the 'colored epoxy'? Might the bare threads be playing a role in bleeding ink out of the colored epoxy? I'd like to get 'hard' edges on a few streaks of the color per wrap, not a 'marbled' appearance.

A base coat of finish is to be laid on first, then the colors added. take a look at this: [www.rodbuilding.org]

Bill - willierods.com

I have watched Putter do his demo several times at the Lamiglas Custom Rod Builders Seminar in Woodland, WA which by the way is coming up the second Fri/Sat in April. One time he did several ink pens then passed them out to the audience. All we had to do was hold them horizontal and every so often for a short while rotate them 180 degrees until the finish set up. First from what you are saying, I think you might be putting too much color pigment. Second, putter uses a finish (I don't remember what is) that is thicker which aids him in doing all the things he coats such as reels. If your finish is not viscous enough you may need to allow it time to start thickening a tad,

Mudhole has an excellent video on "youtube", About 81/2 minutes long and well worth the time.

I started w/ that 8.5 minute mudhole video on YouTube, then the PDF that Putter made. Add a bunch of reading posts on various boards & surfing marbling photos. the one thing I did really learn from my first attempt is that you can let the finish set up a looong time and still do the marble. Over an hour isn't out of the question. Letting it set up really seems to help.

The one thing I don't see is anyone state how many drops pigment per nickle size dab of finish. Attempt #2 is tonight. This time I'm doing the marble over epoxy after 45 minutes of pot time and cutting the pigment from 8 drops to 2, then 4 drops, then 6 drops.

I even thought of applying colored epoxy over hard epoxy, letting it harden, then applying a clear coat over top. Not sure if it would be lumpy though. There's a lot you can do w/ this marbling stuff.

If I recall, for a puddle that size Putter only uses one, but could be wrong. Seems to me putting too much pigment is tandamount to not getting equal parts of two part finishes thereby getting a tacky finish, but I could be wrong. I think a little pigment goes a long way especially for that "Nickle size pool"
Kerry

I agree - you only need enough pigment to color the epoxy. Best of luck.

Cheers

Walt

I also watched Putter along with Kerry. In my observation He first laid down a vary thin coat of clear finish. Then he mixed his colors into the the small puddles, When he is through mixing the colors, the clear coat he first applied is now tacky. At that point he adds His color mix to the already tacky finish I believe he said he did not worry about getting enough color mix the first time. He said he could adjust the mix in a touch up if needed latter. Like any thing in this craft it takes a lot of trial and error to get what you want. Practice, practice and more PRACTICE. I recommend you get Putters CD's

Good Wraps Bob