I really like rubber caps..Epspecially the CRB caps with trim rings....But I dont think it will work on my current build...The rod is a heavy and the butt is about a .5...Any suggestions..What do some of yall like using?

Thanks
Walker

Rubberized cork turned with the handle, then glued on afterwards, then plugged with 1/4 hole plug

Andrew,
In addition to the technique that you suggested, I have lately been turning butt caps out of solid rubberized cork on my lathe.
I use a flat washer on the headstock side of the lathe, with a very small short drill bit inserted into the headstock, to keep the cork centered. I have the drill be sticking out just far enough to act as a centering pin for the cork.
Then, I use a rotating tail stock with a flat face on it that is just a bit smaller than the desired size of the butt cap.

I use a caliper to measure the size of the rod butt and then turn the butt cap to match the diameter of the rod butt.

By using the flat face on the tail stock, and the short small drill bit to keep the cork centered, there is a flat undamaged face on the tail stock side of the cork. This is the side that I leave to the outside of the butt cap for a smooth unmarred finish.

Take care
Roger

y'all work hard...

Solid rubber cork ring after handle is glued on. Drill out hole for butt to fit in (forsner bit works good) maybe 1/16th to 1/8th". Glue on. Shape on belt sander. Clean up with a touch of hand sanding (or completely hand sand - just takes a little longer). This works with EVA also. No need to plug holes with this method and you can wait until the end to glue on. You will need to have a little bit of blank out past the grip for the butt cap to epoxy to.

MH Rubber cap #1 - get a scrap piece of blank that will fit inside the cap. Glue it in - basically creating a stem. Epoxy it in the blank. Done.

MH Rubber cap #2 - sand down the lip on the rubber where the blank would go inside, have the end of the blank resting against it. Leave just enough to let the rubber cap sit in the trim ring. Glue on blank.

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AD

For something a little more 'substantial' than rubberized cork or a rubber cap insert, cut off and attach with rodbond just the top of a Fuji BRC19 butt cap, cutting at the parting line using a parting tool on a lathe. It's one of my most used and favourite methods - a nice hybrid of rubber and cork that all my customers like as its durable, comfortable, and good loking; and this might work for you as well: [www.rodbuilding.org]
I've recently been making them 'removable' using a technique adapted from the lated RM mag and its even betterer.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/19/2010 01:53PM by Steven Libby.

Thanks alot for the replys guys...I completely failed to mention that Im building this with EVA..

Walker,
If I was making an EVA handle, I would use one of the standard butt caps that I have used for years.
I pick up the appropriate sized rubber chair leg that will initially be a bit larger than the butt of the rod, but can then be sanded down.

I make a mandral that fits into the end of a drill or into the lathe and slip the rubber chair leg on the mandral. Essentially, this is simply a piece of solid rod material. Typically 1/2 or 3/4 inch material.
If necessary, I will simply wrap the rod with masking tape until the chair leg cap is a nice snug fit on the rod.

Then, I use 60 grit sand paper, while spinning the rubber chair leg cap at 3600 rpm to shape the end of the cap to the same diameter of the butt of the rod.
When I have the end of the cap to the shape and size that I want, I simply use a serrated knife to cut the cap to the length that I want it to be for a butt cap.

Then, I chuck my rod in my full length rod lathe, and spin the rod. I use a knife and three cornered file to relieve the end of the butt cap to accomodate the trimmed down rubber chair leg. When finished, the cap is a perfect slip fit over the end of the relieved butt end of the rod. I bit of 5 minute epoxy does a find job to adhere the butt cap to the butt of the rod. When done correctly, the rubber expands slightly and the cap will nearly stay on with virtually no glue at all. The glue is just for insurance to keep the cap in place.

Take care
Roger