Can you share with me your method for shaping your epoxy Ramps? I am having trouble getting the shape to be symmetrical and smooth. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Lucky J's custom rods

Are you using a dryer?

The dryer will shape them evenly for you. I've refined the method below a little over time, but it's the jest of it from an old post of mine:

Here's my process, short and sweet:
Sand rod and edge of reel seat with 400grit paper the entire length where the ramp will be located, wipe clean
Mix 5 or 30 minute flex-coat rod building epoxy, about 2cc's of each part
Place rod in dryer and begin rotating
Dab mixed epoxy onto blank with brush and work it up to the reel seat edge
Add as much epoxy and you can to that area and still keep it there as you "work" the epoxy to keep it in place as the rod is turning.
As the epoxy starts to thicken slightly, get the ramp as even as possible with the brush.
When ramp starts to stay in place on it's own leave it alone.
While the rods spinning mix another 2cc's and repeat process, in this application the ramp will really start to take a nice shape, when it does and starts to thicken again, LET IT BE, the dryer will "even out" the ramp FOR YOU (warming the epoxy a touch with a lighter at this stage can help thin it and smooth out a ramp IF it needs it).
While the ramp is evening itself out as the rod turns, mix your last batch of 2cc's and repeat. This 3rd epoxy step is NOT always needed!!! Depends upon how well you did with your 1st 2 coats.
Keep in mind that you WANT to leave a little room for thread or paint that will go on the ramp AS WELL AS two coats of finish epoxy!! So your ramp should be a tad SHY of coming to the edge of the reel seats LOWEST POINT.....meaning: that cut straight line that the hood rides inside, you don't want epoxy in that gully at all, it will imped the hoods movement-not good!
Once ramp is built and still warm, wrap it with thread or paint it right then, the softer epoxy in the next hour + holds the thread nicely or allows the paint to soak into the epoxy well: both are GOOD
Now lay two coats of finish over your ramp-you're done!

Here's what you end up with: [www.rodbuilding.org]

DR



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/14/2010 06:48PM by Duane Richards (DR).

Duane, great step by step instructions. Have to save that one for reference. Awesome Pic also.

Tony

I no longer use winding checks. Ramps look much nicer, and this method enables you to precisely control the size and shape of your ramp without watching epoxy set or fiddling with sags.

First build a ramp with thread. This ramp should have very nearly the diameter and exactly the taper you desire at the end. I use D nylon thread, usually black, and whip finish when I get the right size and shape.

Put the rod on a low rpm dryer and apply just enough lite-build epoxy to saturate the ramp threads but not more than enough to barely the "bumps" made by the ramp threads, and let it turn until the epoxy sets up - but not much longer.

Finally, apply a layer of hi-build epoxy to the ramp while it turns on your dryer. Usually one layer is enough, but go to two layers if one top layer has to be so thick that it sags. With dark colored threads the color and texture of the ramp is smooth and even. Try it on a piece of scrap and see how you like it.

I use an entirely different method than the two above. I use the quick set Rod Bond which is paste consistency and does not flow like the other epoxies.

I use my finger (gloved) to apply and shape it while turning the blank, using a finger tip dipped in alcohol for the final smoothing as it sets up. With this method I can achieve both concave and convex shapes. I also agree that wrapping the finish thread over the epoxy is easiest while the epoxy is still some what soft as ti holds better with out the slipping.

Wow this is what I love about rod building and this site, In less than 12 hours I now have 3 different methods to try! Thanks Guys

One thing I do when making ramps is I tilt the dryer tip up, and as I apply the finish I check the tilt ( placing books whatever will work ) Put some masking tape over the threads of the seat in case you get to much on. How much you tilt the rod determines how long the ramp will be.

Bill - willierods.com

I was having trouble with mine doing right.now I know.
Thanks guys!!!
Mikeb

Here's a fourth method to use, and if weight is a priority, I think it will be the lightest. Instead of building the ramp from epoxy, turn it from foam reel seat shims, like Batson offers, or other sources. Take a full lenght shim of outer diameter equal to the largest diameter of the ramp, mark it at the point it meets the reel seat, and turn the side toward the reel seat to a diameter equal to the ID of the reel seat. That will be inserted into the reel seat. On the part that is outside the reel seat, turn it to the configuration you want- any shape. Then carefully drill the center using a drill bit in your hands to get the ID of the shim equal to the OD of the rod where the shim will be placed. This is a process that must be done carefully, but it is not that hard and doesn't take all that long, as the shims cut easily.

You can paint the shim any color you want-they take paint nicely. If you paint them ivory, they look great as backgrounds for feather inlays. Before putting feathers down, put one coat of rod finish on the shim after installing it to the rod blank.

Final finish is as many coats of rod finish as necessary to cover the feathers or the ramp as you decide.

One warning, be careful turning the shim as they turn very quickly with sandpaper, and it is easy to go too far and get one too small.

LOL Now I have to try them all and see which one works best for me. I think this is going to be a life time of learning too bad I started later in life.

I do mine the same as Phil. Works very nice. The tip on the alcohol dipped finger is key to getting a final smooth surface.....that one took me a while to figure out...glad I'm not the only one.

Scott Sheets
www.smsrods.com

Jeff - If you are down near Aiken, give me a call and I can do one in person for you. You're obviously in upstate SC so not more than a couple hours away.

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Thanks Alex, If I in the neighborhood I would Love to come by and see you. I will try to find you at the Reception Friday. I sure you will be there. Right?

Unfortunately I'm not going to be able to make the reception. I won't be in until late Friday night.

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Sorry, I'll try to look for you Saturday then.