I read the write-ups and did a search, but one thing I didn't find pointed out (I may have overlooked it), do you put color preserver on the top wrap? I've experimented with a couple puting CP on everything, but I don't seem to get the results that I'm seeing here.

You do if it's thread that requires CP. A common mistake seems to be applying the CP before pulling the sacrificial thread which is a mess... Apply it after pulling the thread.

Mark Griffin
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C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

I guess the question that should be asked is, what's not working out? It could be any number of silly things keeping you from getting the right results, from color selection, to burnishing... If you're able to post a pic in the photo section, someone can probably pin point the issue pretty quickly.

Mark Griffin
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C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

Mark, I think the biggest thing that is effecting my results is the color selection. I've been trying to use only 2 colors. The last was green/yellow as the under wrap and green as the over. Also, this last one I used D for both under and over wrap. One before that I used A under D over...it looked better. I wouldn't say they looked bad...I didn't cut them off, but lacked the "wow". Also, I didn't finish coat the under wrap prior to laying the over. Sorry, I don't have any pics of the ones I've done so far.

CP on nylon thread, top and bottom, will give you more striking effects. Not using CP on nylon thread will give you a much more subdued effect.

Make sure you're using high contrast colors on the bottom - black and white or black and yellow will make the effect jump out at you. Also remember to burnish the bottom layer so that the threads are wavy and somewhat out of place. No gaps, but very inconsistent.

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The instructions in the original articles clearly state that you must apply a layer of finish (2 is even better) to the bottom layer. If you fail to do that you don't create the necessary space for the effect to take place.

I think your problem has just been solved.

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Thanks Tom. Will flex coat create too much "space" between the wraps?

Ron,

I used to use one coat of FC high build between layers of thread. I now use two or more. It makes a pretty big difference, in my opinion. I just did one last week that made me go crosseyed when trying to apply the final epoxy coat on the top layer of thread...I've never had one do that before. It was quite annoying, I couldn't keep my eyes focused enough to even hit the wrap with the brush. That particular wrap had three layers of epoxy between thread wraps and it wasn't burnished hard which made a bunch of stripes that ran perpendicular to the blank instead of the usual waves and swirles.

My best advice is to experiment. Tom is right, you need more contrasting colors on the bottom. Wrapping green over green and yellow will not give you a big effect- it will be subtle. I did a gray over gray/white because I wanted a subtle effect and if came out pretty decent. What I learned on that wrap was to use more thread tension on the top wrap. I didn't and when I applied CP, the thread became loose and moved! I have also started to use two coats of CP on the top wrap before finishing. I've found that it helps me to reduce the micro bubles that have appeared between the top threads of some of my tiger wraps.

jeremy

The more the better. Per the articles, you need at least 1 if not 2 applications of epoxy between the thread layers.

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> The more the better. Per the articles, you need at
> least 1 if not 2 applications of epoxy between the
> thread layers.
>
> ...................

Have you ever come to a point of diminishing return on this Tom? Thus far, my best luck with "movement" on the 3D effect has been three coats of HB over Madeira. I recently built a crazy looking 100J and tested black over Candy Red/Lt Grey and it looked awesome. Tigered all the underwraps with only two coats between layers and they came out great. The 6" butt wrap was just about 1" diameter, so thinking I could get it to REALLY dance around, I put FIVE coats between layers. It did move around nicely, but had kind of a "stringy" look (your eye could actually focus on the top threads) that I've never had before. Don't know if it was too many coats, or simply the blank's diameter that caused it.

Mark Griffin
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C&M Custom Tackle
San Dimas, California

I've not gone beyond 3 layers of LS Supreme High Build, which is pretty darn thick. It didn't get me much more than 2 layers did so I would have to assume that there is indeed some point at which you don't gain anything extra by adding more and more. A good thick single layer, or two, seems to do about all that needs to be done.

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Thanks all. I pulled the wrap off last night and replaced it with black/goldenrod A under. I'll coat it a couple times and over wrap it with green and see how it turns out. It's my rod, so I don't mind experimenting.