Anytime I ever tried to apply flex coat in below 60 degree weather, I always got an amine blush occur in the form of milky looking finish after it cured. This blush, I've noticed seems to intensify and detensify with a change in humidity and or temps even after it's cured! Sometimes it looks really bad and others not. So, I tried ThreadMaster. I like the TM because I can usually get it on in 2 coats and it looks flat and level with no intervention on my part. Now I've noticed that I'm having the same problem with it blushing when applying at a temp of 50. Sorry, my shop ain't heated. It's aggravating to come back and see those white striations in a perfectly level finish. I've never had any problem with LS in any temperature as far as a blush. It always sets clear as a bell. Problem with LS, even the hi build, is it takes at least 3 coats to get the coverage right with no footballs. It seems too stuck on itself and will draw up if you apply just a little too much. So, do you die-hard flex coat and TM users always apply in warmer temps or have any of you noticed the same problem?
BTW, it ain't contamination, I've eliminated any chance of that.
Greg

The right concentration of CO2 and humidity will cause amine blush.

There must be some way for you to increase the temperature of your shop during finishing operations. A small space heater, anything that might help get the temperature up a bit. Try to apply finish at 50F has to be difficult and is below the designed application parameters for most finishing epoxies.

LS Supreme High Build will not require 3 applications, but you may not like just how thick it is. At 50F I can imagine it would be like putting silly putty on a rod.

..........

Heated dryer box (with a few light bulbs)

Just like painting a car in cold temps, I used to get this . It is that any type of finish in cold temps will hold any moisture in the finish because it sets up too fast, and bubbles and moisture get trapped in it. The finish when made to set slowly the finish has the time to let any moisture - evaporate out of the finish. Just like - bubbles - .

I like cooler temps only to keep the finish soft in order for it to flow and level. I would suggest try experimenting on a piece of scrap. Thin even a thin finish with a Mod - Temp lacquer thinner. A little at a time. Yea i know, but since you have a cool place when thinned and made to stay wet longer, any moisture and bubbles will have the time to leave. it will take more coats because it is thinner, but that is the price you pay.

Either that or heat the place. if you put a straw in honey or syrup and blow bubbles in it -- do the bubbles leave it ?

Bill - willierods.com

Greg,
It only takes a few minutes to make a "hot box" for your rod drying.
Simply take a cardboard box, a light bulb and put the box over the rod after it has been coated with the light bulb inside. There will be plenty of heat to keep the temp up over 70 degrees.

Take care
REW

The old type Christmas lights give out a lot of heat ?? Even wood you find in the garbage will work. And it is free.

Bill - willierods.com

Yep, Christmas tree lights is what I use. Been using them for 20 years, works great.

I use 4 clamp on light fixtures with 100W bulbs. My mounting system is relatively crude, I have the lights clamped to 4 jack stands sitting on the table with my dryer. The nice thing about this system is the lights are directly over the rod and I can move them around to get better coverage depending on the rod length.

maybe you can find some kind of long slender heating element from Home depot or Granger's. A long time ago some one here posted of a nice one. Maybe Granger's ??

Bill - willierods.com

The point is, once you have your heated dryer box you be able to operate for pennies, it will keep contaminents and pets away from your wet finish, shortens drying time and it is a good way to keep your finish warm.
Kerry