I did a bobo last night i glued up a 10" and a 21/2" cork grips on my mandrels but i made a rookie mistake i did not wax the mandrels before i glued the rings up and put them on the mandrels. I used a 3/8" mandrel and 25 cork rings. I really hate to loose that much cork as i don't have that much margin in the rod to do dumb things like that.
Doe anyone have ideas on getting the grips off the mandrels after they are turned.
All help is appreciated.

Paul@soonercustomrod.com

There is a thin brass tubing that will just fit over the mandrel. I use 1/4 mandrels so I use a 7mm tube when I stick one. Hobby Shops that carry RC airplane parts should carry them. I have found this when I started making pens and found that the tubes that they are turned on were the exact right size to fit over the 1/4 mandrels. I also have a set of gasket cutters that will fit over 3/8 rod. They are only about 5" long and the brass tube comes in 3' sections. Most tubing is sized by ID so you ought to be able to get the right one you need sharpen the edge and tap between the cork and mandrel. You might get lucky enough to get it to pop off by drilling a hole in a board and popping it on top of the mandrel with another block of wood. I make my own mandrels so i dont worry about being rough with them.
Good Luck
Bob

No help now, but....while at the hardware store, buy you a couple cheap 1/4" solid brass rods, glue all your cork on these, waxed of course, and use the mandrels only for turning.

DR

You might try putting the mandrel in a vise (use tape to protect it) and try unscrewing it Apply heat on the madrel (not the cork)I glue up/clamp on threaded rod and if it gets stuck I just unscrew it. I put on the mandrel after glue up for turning

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

What type of mandrel is it and what is the adhesive? There are different solutions for the different answers. If on all thread rod, try chucking the rod in a power hand drill and turning in reverse.

If drill steel rod a couple of the suggestions above may work if adhesive is Titebond, if epoxy.......................good luck!

If you used Titebond, you might be able to chuck it up on the lathe, get it spinning on a low RPM and then try a few quick, abrupt "grabs" to break the glue free. I've done the same said mistake and it worked for me, but it was on a 3" grip.

Paul, If you haven't already broken the cork free, use a large area washer with a hole the size of the mandrel. Open up a vise that so that the mandrel will pass thru the opening and with the washer between the jaws of the vise and the cork, hammer down on the mandrel to break it free of the cork.

Or - you can cut the grip into manageable sections, break them free and then glue together. Just cut on seam. I use a (wavy) serrated bread knife to do this - all the time if I do not like an end, or near end, piece of cork.
Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2010 03:18PM by Herb Ladenheim.

I do not know why you people use smooth mandrels to glue your cork on. This amazes me.

The only thing and as stated heat the mandrill, it may help to soften the glue, and i would try putting a flat plate of steel over the cork - and hit it with a hammer. I would guess this is a tapered mandrill. with the thin taper down onto a hard surface.

I always glue my cork on a threaded rod. Then when it is dry - overnight - loosen one wing nut and tighten the other. Works every time. Then when off, give a quick ream to fit a mandrill to shape.

I only say this because I have heard this so many times on this board ???

Bill - willierods.com

I appreciate everyones help on my goof.
I wound up using a 1 gal.plastic bag. I put the cork and mandrel(not tapered bill) in the bag and put it onto a pot of hot water. Let it set for about 5 min. then used vice grip on the mandrel and was able to brake the cork loose.

Paul

Paul@soonercustomrod.com

Jon Black Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you used Titebond, you might be able to chuck
> it up on the lathe, get it spinning on a low RPM
> and then try a few quick, abrupt "grabs" to break
> the glue free. I've done the same said mistake and
> it worked for me, but it was on a 3" grip.

DO NOT TRY GRABBING SOMETHING THAT IS SPINNING IN A LATHE.

Perhaps this isn't an issue with small hobby lathes that aren't that powerful, but if this is a larger lathe I heard way too many stories as a former tool and die maker about BAD things happening when people or their clothes got wrapped around lathes. The stories usually ended with broken bones or having to use a pressure washer to get the mess off the walls, the floor, the ceiling, and using dental records for identification.

If the above suggestions don't work, perhaps putting the mandrel in a pot of boiling water or a low temperature oven would get it to release? It would likely separate the cork segments also, but they'd maybe be salvagable.

Good luck.

Dan



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2010 04:00PM by Dan Ertz.

NEVER EVER grab something spinning on a lathe!!! As posted above the consequences can be very severe, also there is no reason to use the lathe! I'm sure most if not all of us have power hand drills many with variable speeds that can be utilized to turn the mandrel while holding onto the grip. I do this all the time to spin my glued up cork just to save time, it is quicker than turning wing nuts or by hand.

if you have a cordless drill, chuck the mandrel in the drill.. with a glove on to get a good grip on the cork carefully start the drill. all you want to do is break the grip of the glue to the mandrel. using a cordless drill gives you good control(do not try this on a lathe

John,
I agree on the use of a drill.
It really doesn't matter whether it is a corded or a cordless drill.
The key is to use a drill that has a chuck that will handle the size of the rod that you want to put in the chuck.
Also, a drill with great torque is a good thing to help break loose any stuck shafts.

I like to use a 1/2 inch Milwaukee corded drill because it has an 850 rpm top speed, and a huge amount of torque when the drill is just starting.

Take care
Roger

the only reason I made my statement is think of -- One uses a mandrel, puts wax on it -( so the glue does not adhere to the mandrel ) OK now you put the cork rings on the mandrel - which has wax on them and the wax goes into the center of the cork rings. Ok ya shape the rings and then place them onto the blank ? Does the wax not go onto the blank ? Then you ream the handle to have a better fit. - Now any tiny bit of wax is onto the reamer ? How many can or do clean the wax off the reamer, and after time this wax builds up on the reamer, then this reamer is put into a handle any type of handle - putting that wax into that handle ??

After a while a build up of wax will give a handle failure ?

Eliminate the wax with a threaded rod. Keeps the reamer cleaner, the inside of the cork or whatever handle CLEANER. Better bond between the handle and the blank ?

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, that is not my experience, and I use wax consistently on both all thread and drill steel mandrels when gluing up cork rings. As I start with 1/4" holes when gluing up, I always have to either drill or ream the finished grip to fit the blanks ( I only build fly rods). The drilling or reaming removes all of any wax that has transferred to the cork and subsequent passes pick up clean cork that appears to be removing any wax residue on my reamers. I just went and checked my reamers and cannot find any evidence of residual wax. If it is there it is so minute that I cannot foresee it causing any problems and I have not had any yet...............................knock on wood.