I can be a bit slow at times with my finishing and was wondering if I can "thin" it out a bit to help me out with this? A few drops of something that will not cloud the end product? Thanks for the help.

Eric,
You would be better off setting the bottles of finish in warm water (in case you live in a cold climate) for awhile to thin them, or use the Lite materials that are made by various companies such as Threadmaster or Flexcoat, etc. If you insist on thinning, either acetone or denatured alcohol is the choice ( denatured alcohol is less of a hazard). But I would try the Lite finishes first and you can still use a warm water bath for thinning that material.
Sanford

Warming the epoxy will make it more thinner and more manageable, but will reduce the available working time.

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When I thin mine I use a medium temperature lacquer thinner

Bill - willierods.com

I agree with Tom as to warming the epoxy. You can thin with just a bit of acetone if you wish, but this can result in the finis being "tacky" until the acetone has evaporated (as well as the epoxy hardening). The results are spotty, and it is not my preference.

I bought myself a couple baby bottle warmers. If the epoxy is not already warm then you just pop the two bottles into their separate warmers and you have warm components very, very quickly. To keep things warm longer I bought a couple of coffee cup warmers. Put the two bottles into their separate coffee cups on the two warmers with some water in each cup. The epoxy stays warm all day this way.

Higher temperature does result in a faster set. I've found it to be manageable. One longer term concern might be that it will shorten the shelf life of the epoxy components (particularly the hardener). I don't have data on this, but from a chemistry viewpoint it makes sense.


Bill

What kind of rods and how many are you doing per batch?

Take a very close look at the following - section on proper use of Acetone when and how -

Some production companies thin only the first coat -

[www.flexcoat.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/01/2010 11:42AM by Bill Stevens.

Eric, personally I don't thin my 2 part wrap finish. Here is a tip that I picked up from this forum that will give you more time with your finish. After mixing the finish in a plastic measuring cup I pour it out onto a piece of foil that is covering a small dish or plastic lid. Use something that is about 4 to 5 inches in diameter and shallow. The mixed finish will spread out on the foil and give you more time to apply it than if it were in the mixing cup. I have found the time frame is about 10 to 15 minutes more than if it were left in the cup. Now this also depends on who's finish and type you are using. I have found that Threadmaster Lite seems to have the longest "pot" life of all the finishes I have tried and the least amount of bubbles forming in it. I get my best mix and time when my man cave temp is around 72.
Any of these 2 part finishes will cure much faster when they are contained in a small volume cup. The thing to remember is that you are causing a chemical reaction by mixing the two parts and container size and temp of the parts speeds up the process. With the finish spread out on the foil, you are reducing the "containment" of the finish and it will slow down its reaction time.
Hope this helps. I'm not real fast with applying my finish and this has helped me get great results.

I use Flex Coat Lite and Diamondite, both thinned about 30% with denatured alcohol. It works fine and if you mix the finish together first then add the alcohol, it kills the bubbles in it. You won't get one coat finish this way, but when done on silk thread gives the most transparent wraps with no "shimmers" or microbubbles that you can get.
john

For whatever it is worth - it works, I take regular or thick finish and thin it. I use medium temp lacquer thinner. Only cause I figure I will get more out of the thick stuff then buying the thinner stuff for the same price. Cheep I guess.

But it works. I mix just enough so as I mix there are no bubbles in th cup. No foil to play with. i have not had any problems with any rods, no customers complaining !!

You should also think about the temperature of where you finish. If to hot the finish will set FAST. I like a cooler place. it helps the finishe stay soft longer and flow better.

Just do not put too much on at one time. Before you use it - turn the containers over or side ways, and look to see if there is a thick layer on the bottom of the bottle. If so the solids are stuck. Warm it and like said turn slowly to mix.

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks for all the advise, I do much of this already. My fault I should have told you my normal routine first.
I mix my room temp (68 deg) flex coat lite in a cup with a metal spatula for approx 2-3 min then pour onto some foil on the table. I let it sit for 1 min to allow air bubbles to raise and pop. I then use my brush to apply the finish starting at the label area and working my way up to the tip. On my multi piece rods I do not have such a problem but I am doing some casting rods with 9 guides, hook keeper and a 4 inch or so label area. The problem I have is that by the time I get to the top few guides the finish is getting thick causing a "foot ball" shaped application. I have thought of doing the guides first and in a separate batch do the label area? This would buy me some time but that seams like a waste of product and of time if there is an easier way? Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.

Start at the tip to begin with. The smaller guide wraps are easier done while the finish is still thin.

You shouldn't require more than 30 to 45 seconds per guide wrap. If you're taking longer than that, you're doing work you don't need to do - the finish will do it for you if you'll let it.

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Thanks I tried it and it worked much better. I Think part of the problem is I am finishing it on my drier that is only 3rpm and that is slowing me down. Thanks for all the help.

Unhook it from your dryer while applying finish. Then once you have the finish where you want it, chuck it and start the dryer.

You have so much more control finishing under hand power rather than trying to do it while the rod is being spun by your dryer.

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