When I turn cork rings I build up the mandrel with masking tape to create a more snug fit so the rings don't spin when I'm turning the cork. I'm sure there is a better way to do this. Any good suggestions to get a tight fit on the mandrel?

Brandan,
Actually, tape works quite well.
Another option is to get a few more different sized manrels.

Are you turning single rings, or are your turning - glued up rings forming a handle.

Take care
Roger

The suggested way to do it is.

1. Wax the mandrel
2.slide the cork rings on and glue them together
3.clamp in a cork clamp of some sort
4.chuck up in your lathe and the epoxy will have created a bond to the wax. but
not to the point where you won't be able to break the bond.
5. once you have completed turning the cork. "I" just grap the handle while the lathe is spinning
and it breaks the bond between the cork and the mandrel.

I have had instances that the epoxy bond breaks free during the shaping process, and then, I do exactly as you said you are doing. I take some
masking tape and slide the cork up onto it to hold the cork from spinning.

Note: I don't know if this is the way that eveyone else does it, but it works for me.

Best of luck,
Steve

Steve Bro
(BroCo Custom Rods)

A couple of years ago someone here suggested to not use the same mandrel to turn the cork as to glue it, as the glue can corrode the relatively expensive mandrel. I had already discovered that, as my Andy Dear mandrel turned brown the first time I used it to glue a handle.
So, I went out and bought a couple of sizes of threaded rod, and use those for gluing. I do wax them up, but it's pretty easy to get the handles off by just turning in the proper direction.
For the mandrels I use for turning, I have several sizes, but usually put a couple of layers of tape, just to ensure the cork doesn't slip.

I always bought aluminum rods (Home Depot) cut them up, and wrapped different diameters with masking tape...3/8'' , 1/2'' , etc
Very ,very rarly does one slip.

Just another way I do it. I use threaded rod with wing nuts on both ends with washers. Grab a few soft rubber bushings and brass ones in different size dia. from any hardware store. Put the bushing on the rod with some brass spacers and turn the wing nuts to compress the bushing till the cork is tight enough. Sounds like it is difficult but it is soooooo simple.

John

Epoxy will not harm a steel mandrel. Some types of carpenter glues, such as Titebond, will quickly rust a steel mandrel unless you're quick to turn and remove the grip.

.............

Roger,
I'm turning formed handles. I've tried wax on the mandrel and let the glue help hold it in place. It seems that I'm pretty close to what many other people are doing. John Z. - if you are using threaded rods, you put it on a mandrel to turn after it has been set up? Thanks for the ideas guys.

If you're turning grips that all pre-formed, there is no need to put wax on the mandrel. The wax is there to prevent the adhesive used for gluing the rings from bonding the grip to the mandrel. If you're just reshaping pre-formed handles, use a mandrel that offers a snug fit or install the grip on a threaded mandrel and use nuts at each end to secure the grip.

...........

I use Andy Dear's mandrels.

I don't wax my mandrels...ever.

Epoxy won't hurt them either.

I glue up and shape on the very same mandrels.

Every now and again I'll scrape them to get them cleaned up.

Masking tape is one of the best ways to get a bit of an increase in the diameter of your mandrel to get a grip to fit snug. You should be drilling out the rings close enough that a single layer of tape is all that is needed though.



.............................................................

Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

What do you guys use for turning wood reel seat inserts?

Paul

Paul@soonercustomrod.com

I turn just the insert, then chuck on one of the shoulders and center bore. We featured this process in a recent RodMaker article.

............

There is an easy way to make your own threaded mandrels too.

Rodmaker Vol 12, #3



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2009 10:24AM by Chuck Mills.

I glue the rings on a cork clamp jig. Then I slip the glued up cork on the threaded mandrel with the rubber bushing and wing nuts get it tight and turn.

Paul,

This is what I use for all my turning Works great [www.rodbuilding.org]

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

No, epoxy won't hurt the mandrels, but Titebond or any of the wood glues sure will, and that's what I get the best results with in gluing rings.

I glue up cork, Birch Bark and some woods on all thread, with Titebond lll. I wax the threads to avoid adhesion to the rod and also because the Titebond is quite caustic to metal. After the grip blank is set, I transfer it to a polished drill steel mandrel and turn it . If needed (not always) I add some masking tape to the mandrel for added friction.

I try to glue up and turn on the same size mandrels as I dislike boring out the entire grip from a small to larger diameter if I can avoid it. This is especially important with Birch Bark as prior to mounting on the rod, these grips can be fragile.

I have been gluing the cork rings on my 1/4' mandrel using Titebond. I have been putting a coat of wax on the mandrel first. What is the issue if you get a little rust on the mandrel?

I glue mine on a threaded rod and tighten with wing nuts and large washers. Then when dry I loosen one nut and tighten the other one and it pushes it right off. Then put on an arbor to shape.

Bill - willierods.com

I glue my rings on a 1/4 threaded rod which I put wax on then used a modified quick bar clamp. When dried I remove the clamp and chuck it to my cordless drill and hold the cork and spin if off, takes 10 seconds.