me again for another round of what the heck is this guy doing!

I am rebuilding a 11'6" GL3 float rod from scratch. I have already removed the rods finish by scraping which worked pretty well. The blank is refinished in clear satin polyurethane, a very thin and even coating, this also went well. The handle is glued up and the blank spined. Everything is done except for the wrapping and finishing.......now this leads me to my problem.

while re coating the rod blanks I hung the blanks using coat hangers with masking tape arbors on the ends. These were then pushed into the blanks to hold them up vertically while I applied the finish. Somewhere along the way some finish worked its way into the masking tape arbor that was inside the tip section and when I went to pull the hanger out the masking tape arbor ripped off and was stuck inside the tip section towards the opening, not too far away. No problem I thought this should be easy to get out well to make a long story short the masking tape arbor is about 12" down the tip section and not going anywhere, to make matters worse the thing is all sticky and gummy and is acting like its glued in there.

The problem is I kept making it worse by trying to get it out, I even made a homemade tool using an old scrap section of rod blank and a small screw that was glued to the tip. I was able to get a good grip with the screw tip and just as I was about to pull out the masking tape arbor the screw broke off the scrap blank and is now stuck in the graphite arbor! It seems I was in a big rush and did not use the proper glue to make the tool.

so now I have a stuck masking tape arbor with a screw in the center stuck in my tip section about 12 inches down!

I have tried everything and nothing has worked, I am at a loss for any more ideas and I feel like breaking the tip over my knee!

This rod has been fighting me all the way it seems, I have had so many screw ups working on it.

any ideas guys?

Is it possible to use a solvent to soften the tape and then a magnet on a telescoping stick (local hardware store item) to at least remove the screw. This may work unless you used a brass or stainless steel screw. Then if the tape adhesive is softened up enough it just may come out with a screw glued with rodbond and allowed to set up properly.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

Either alcohol or mineral spirits should be a solvent for the masking tape adhesive. You could find out on a strip of tape. If you poured the solvent down the inverted tip section it should soften up the tape arbor somewhat. Then you might take a small diameter but powerful spring , cut off one end and sharpen the wire, and (firmly) attach the other end of the spring to a thin wire rod. Using such a tool as an auger just might enable you to pull out the softened tape arbor. Good luck.

I would try what Phil suggested. Also you might try Goo Gone. It is used for breaking down gummy adhesives, good stuff. And it won't hurt the blank.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

You might also try using small bits to ream out the tape or a small cork reamer. ream back wards to loosen the tape

Good Wraps Bob

Jason,
I beg the obvious, but why bother getting it out of the tip section?
Granted a bit of tape and a small screw has a bit of weight, but since it is 12 inches down the tip section, it won't affect the way that the sections are connected.

I think that there is a big issue in trying to remove the tape and screw, so I would just leave it alone and finish the rod.

Good luck
Roger

Although not entirely rigid, you don't want that stuff left in there. The tip has to be able to flex unobstructed and anything that causes a sudden change in the flex at that point can cause breakage. Not sure you have enough there to do that, but I'd remove it.

The suggestions about solvents or Goo-Gone might be the ticket. Even filling the tip with mere water and letting it soak could do it - masking tape doesn't like water. You'll just have to try it and see if it works. If not, come back and we'll think some more.

..............

Jason,

You'll soon be able to look back on this situation and laugh. You came to the right place for advice, these guys are full of great ideas. If it were me, I'd try the Goo-Gone like some guys have suggested. I'd be afraid of sticking anything else down in the blank for fear of pushing the tape and screw even farther down.

Good luck!
jeremy

Something that just came to mind, it may be a long shot but worth a try. Fill a tube with some water. No immerse the tip section, tip down, into the water filled tube. Immerse the tip further than the location where the tape arbor is. The water that fills the tip from the small opening at the very tip may "float" the arbor up the tip enough so that it's no longer tight against the walls. If you can leave it in this position for a bit you may find the tape arbor simply floats its way up. Just don't allow any water to enter the tip section from the ferrule end.

.................

Water may be all you need to soften the tape. I have repaired rods with masking tape arbors that had become water soaked. The tape had become a slimy mess when soaked.

Stan Grace
Helena, MT
"Our best is none too good"

If the section is completely hollow, use compressed air to try and blow it out.

Ron has a good idea. Soak it for a few days then try to blow it out from the tip end. I thought about trying to push it out from the tip end with a piece of piano wire but I doubt that would be stiff enough.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

how about a shop vac?

Fill with the water and similar to the idea of compressed air from the tip end, only your coming from the other side. This in theory should create a vacuum within the blank and suck the screw, arbor, and tape all out. (Like I said, in theory)

I am thinking maybe cooking oil ??

Next time find a piece of scrap that fits the furrel. Before it is all the way in, I wrap about 6 turns of 1/4" masking tape on the scrap to act like a plug. Pushed tight to the furrel end. I had a piece get stuck in a furrel once, before I made up the tape plug. Then put the hanger on it.

Bill - willierods.com

Roger,

If it is not removed, is there a chance the adhesive would break loose on a hot summers day and the screw and tape would slide up and down the inside of the blank?

I think that would create a whole new problem with it ratteling around inside the blank.


Bil

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

How about doing tests with Goo Gone, alcohol, any other solvent you can think of that won't harm the blank, then use the best one. Stand the blank in a shallow pan, tip end up. Tape it to a table leg or something to hold it up.Fill the blank from the tip end with the solvent, and let it set. I'll bet the adhesive will let go and the mess will drop out. The pan will catch the mess and the solvent. Of course, if the masking tape is not completely plugging the blank, this won't work. The solvent would just run through.

Its less of a adhesive problem and more of a super tight fit problem, I have tried suction with a really large syringe attached to the blank with some tubing, it was powerful suction, couldn't believe it didn't work. I even slightly heated the blank for one minute with some gentle heat to expand the blank with no results. I also tried a mini plunger used on sinks with no results either. Suction isn't working I tried that before posting here.

so now I have assembled a basic tool with a spring on one end of a scrap section of blank, the screw fits the inside diameter of stuck screw so I should be able to grab both. I am waiting for the slow cure epoxy to cure up and then I will try one more grab session.

The tape should be softened by now all I need is a slight grab and I should get this.

I could not find any magnet tools that would fit the inside diameter of the blank, kind of stuck there.

I will be back tomorrow for a update.

Does the tip section have a male or female section? What ever section it is you do want it clean off all foreign material

Good Wraps Bob

Bill.
If the screw and tape come loose on a hot summer day and start rattling around - take the rod apart and shake out the screw and tape.
Take care
Roger

Jason,
If you are really worried about it and can't live with it in the blank, measure the blank to find where the blockage is and chop the blank just above the blockage.
Push the blockage out of the blank, and then glue and splice the blank back together. No more blockage in the blank.
Take care
Roger