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Found the ticket
Posted by: Dick Ross (204.9.111.---)
Date: December 16, 2009 02:55PM

I build a lot of handles with wood and antler/bone mixes.I have always had trouble counter boring after turning the handles. I also bore them out and use foam arbors to lighten the handles. I have tried the pre boaring, gluing in the arbors mounting them to the mandrel and turning.too much slippage on the mandrel. Using the flexcoat pilot bit system where you build your own pilot bits. Get about two handles worth and have to rebuild due to the hardness of horn/antler. Found a place in Tennessee called Morris Tool that has Counterbore drills with a 5/16" or 3/8" pilot hole that you can use a piece of tool steel inserted into it for the pilot. I bought both the 5/8" and 13/16" with a 5/16" counter bore drill hole. These have 1/2" inch shaft, but if you hang out your tool steel about an inch you can use it in good Cordless drill with a 3/8" chuck. I used the cordless because iot turns slower than a regular drill. These are QUALITY BITS and made short work of the last batch of handles I made. I bored the 13/16" for the reel seat insert, hit it with the drum sander till the inset is right take the 5/8" bore out the rest and use 17 mm foam arbors and are done.

I am probably not describing it well. I will post a photo tomorrow but here is the link so you can kinda see what I am talking about.

[www.morriswoodtool.com]

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Re: Found the ticket
Posted by: Chuck Mills (---.grenergy.com)
Date: December 16, 2009 03:21PM

Dick, what are you using for the wood to antler glue bond? I have some mule deer antler that needs to be recycled.

Chuck

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Re: Found the ticket
Posted by: Dick Ross (204.9.111.---)
Date: December 16, 2009 04:20PM

I use Gorilla glue. I wet the wood and all thread them together like cork. The bases as long as they are a 1" in dia. at the shallowest part work for the back of the handle and I use the tips of antlers for the front. If you can get moose it is the best, has more solid material and less pith in the center.

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