I picked up some thin plastic spacer sheet material from a knife supply site to use in cork grips. I used flexcoat adhesive on the plastic to plastic and plastic to cork. Twice I've had the plastic-plastic bond come loose, either while shaping or while reaming. I'm not sure of what type of plastic it is. I did prep the plastic before bonding, and kept the plastic clamped for ~24 hrs prior to gluing up the grips, and it was at least 36 hrs before shaping. After reading the tribulations of trying to debond Rodbond on another post, would it be a better choice for this application? Anybody familiar w/ the material I'm referring to? They're not a sponsor here, so I won't post a link to the knife supply site.
Jerry

I use Rod Bond or Ultimate Gel. For a better bond, I drill 4 or 5 holes around the center hole in the ring it so that adhesive goes through and bonds the cork to cork also (thanks to Jay Hunt for that tip!!!!!)

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Jerry very touchy - poly prop different than poly ethylene - plastic is a very versatile word

You of all people - how about some of that high priced "nano poxy stuff you cram in peoples mouth"

click on the PDFlink - bond very specific

[www.google.com]

The only way I could figure to plug a hole in a "plastic battery case" was to hot melt "solder" same material into hole.

Bill, that "nano poxy stuff" is just too dang expensive to play w/...I'm trying to keep the cost of the grips under what a new gold front tooth would cost ya. I'll play w/ CA, but am afraid the colors will "bleed". You're right, I'm not sure what kind of poly it is! I did post a pic of the foregrip...it separated while still on the mandrel, but the rear grip came apart when almost finished reaming. I DO like the look of the thin material. Mike, your option is next...thanks!
Jerry

Superglue. It will not bleed any colors and will bond almost any sort of plastic. They even make a "plastic bonding" superglue that I would use if it is just the plastic to plastic that you are having problems with.

I've had issues with epoxies and super glue on the plastic to plastic or metal to cork. The best luck I've had has been with Tite-Bond Poly adhesive; the epoxies and CA seem to have too rigid a bond (if that makes sense). Tite-Bond Poly seems to be a little more durable when it takes a shot from a tool on a lathe. The Tite-Bond Poly is also a lot less expensive than the dental adhesives. If you have questions let me know at Hellsangler@live.com .

Jerry - I have some basic chem knowledge of plastics. Since you can't provide a link to the site, can you describe the material? I might be able to help. Is it stiff or flexy for its thickness? How thick is it? Is it clear or white or opaque? Does it have a strong 'chemical' smell or no smell?
If I 'read between the lines' correctly, you're a dentist? Is it anything like X-ray medium?
As Bill mentioned, there's poly-pro, poly-eth, poly-styrene and Polly Ester (chem humor,,,heheee) among others. Most plastic binders will actually repel non-compatable material after the initial melt phase making future bonding difficult. David mentioned Superglue which is a great thing to test with. Just don't "commit" to it during a build. Test it first. CA can actually reduce some plastics to syrup and make others brittle.

Jerry,
My brother recently sent me some plastic glue that he obtained from a supplier in Texas who's name I can't remember.
Do a search on plastic adhesive and see what you come up with.

I will admit that I have used the super glue with the plastic bonding agent. It does work better than any other glue that I have used. The problem is one of expense.

The prep material comes in a glass vial that you break to allow it to act as a prep material for the super glue. The problem with this is that as soon as the material evaporates from the glass vial, the useful part of the adhesive goes away. In other words, you have one shot at getting everything glued up. If you need to glue again, you will need to open another vial of primer.

Take care
Roger

I have successfully used Devcon epoxy on arcrylics, adhering to cork, wood and more acrylic with out a failure during turning or reaming.

Gorilla Glue has a new CA glue out formulatedspecificly for this pupose. It says on the package that it is very flexible and withstands direct impact well. Should be able to pick it up at any home supply such as Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hadware, etc.......

Bill in WV