Finished a rod last nite and didn't stay with it long enough. This morning it had bubbles all in the guide wraps. How can I get rid of them? Hairdryer? Will it work after it has already hardened? It's been nearly 24 hrs now since application. Thanks

No, once the finish has set, they're in the finish permanently.

You can sand a bit and recoat, or strip and rewrap. But a hair dryer applied 24 hours after the finish has been applied isn't going to do anything other than increase your electric bill by a buck or two this month.

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Nope, they are in there for good unless they are right at the surface and might be removed with some very light sanding. Most importantly you need to know why they are there, they shouldn't be!

Were there bubbles in the epoxy mix when it was applied? This is what it sounds like may have happened as they are in "all the wraps." If so, they should have been eliminated before applying to the wraps.

If they happened after the application of the epoxy to the wraps, it may have been in the application process. Things like brushing can cause these.

If you are able to get to them with some light sanding (don't sand the thread) another coat of epoxy on top should fix it.

If they are near the surface, you an CAREFULLY shave them out with a sharp razor blade, the new application of finish will fill them, careful to not cut the threads.

DR

Brandon, here are a few tips that I have learned about reducing bubbles or fully eliminate them. First, when mixing, go somewhat slowly with the mixing stick. I usually mix for about 3 min with 3 cc of each part. Second I pour the epoxy onto a small 4 inch plate covered with foil. The epoxy will level out and some bubbles will come out there when they rise to the surface. Third when putting on the finish I do use a brush and cover all the wraps, then I go over the rod with a small straw and blow out any bubbles that are still hanging around. If it is a first coat on wraps that haven't been treated with CP you may still get some to "come out" of the thread and I just keep an eye on the rod while it is turning. Every once in a while I get dinged with a bubble that I missed. I either try to sand it out or cut it with a razor blade and recoat the wrap. Like the folks stated above, go light on the sanding, if you get into the thread it will show if you try to cover it with a second coat. I took an old set of small files, like the ones a gunsmith would use and I glued some light grit sand paper to them. It gives me better control when sanding one out so I do not get the blank. A disposable nail file will work to, but they are a bit large for me.
On another note for using the plate covered with foil, this will increase the pot life of your mixed epoxy too. All of these tips that I use were picked up here, neat thing about this site, so many good ideas to try.
I have found that Thread Master Lite is the best so far of the epoxies that I have tried for having the least amount of bubbles in it from mixing. Just my opinion.

Also use thin finish. I use thick finish and thin it. I mix with one half a mixing stick, and check to see if any fine bubbles are in it before I apply. No need for poring into a tray.

Also if the temps are high it will set faster keeping them in the finish.

Bill - willierods.com

I live in Huntsville, AL and we have a local joke here that if you ask 10 guys which is the best way to Atlanta (about 200 mi distant), you will get about 15 different answers (and, interestingly enough, all will be right!). Once a year I teach a rodbuilding class and I use this analogy for "which is the best way to apply finish". After several years of frustration and trying the "different ways to Atlanta" (excuse me, I mean the different ways to apply finish), I came up with one that works best for me, and because it virtually eliminates bubbles, is quick , is simple and it levels nicely.

The steps are as follows:

(1) Use Flexcoat regular, or high build (not lite)
(2) Heat syringes a few minutes with a spotlight or floodlight
(3) Dispense 1 1/2 cc or more of each into a mixing cup (have had no problem curing this small quantity)
(4) Use a mechanical mixer (the kind that rotates the cup at about 45 deg. angle, mine is homemade) for about 4 minutes
(5) Apply directly from the cup with a metal spatula (note: a brush introduces air bubbles) with rod rotating about 90 RPM which gives a nice clean edge (speed not critical but certaintly much faster than dryer speed). I find no benifit to pouring the mix onto foil because, using the mixer, there are no bubble to begin with
(6) Place on dryer overnight
(7) Apply three thin coats, removing excess each time with the spatula

After much experimentation, I believe that the keys to a bubble free finish are the mechanical mixer and the spatula. Only very rarely do I ever have to bring out the soda straw.

I have to comment on the use of any kind of a thinner in rod finish.

Epoxy cures by a chemical reaction. If there is any unevaporated thinner in the mix during the chemical cure or kick of the mixture, it is possible to trap solvent in the mix during the cure of the epoxy causing a softer or cloudy finish.

If one does things like spreading the mix on a plate to both slow the cure rate, as to also allow the solvent evaporate, so much the better.

However, I think that for most folks, they will have an overall better finish with no added thinners in the finish mix.

If a fellow has a method that works, go for it.

I just think that generally speaking, it is NOT a good idea to add any thinner chemical into a 2 part epoxy finish.

Good luck
Roger

Roger :

There has to be some type of additive to thin out finish when they make the heavy one coat and the thin finishes ?? What ever they use-it thins it out.

Even Flex Coat say it thins out there first coat, Check there site.

My finish drys well ! No problems in 4-5 years of use plus. I cut out a step. Quicker to use.

It is the old KISS method

All finishes do not - fully - cure -- until at least 5 - 7 days..

Bill - willierods.com