Good day all,
My question is regarding guide sizes for a T&T 907S-4 that would be used primarily for schooly sized stripers in my home waters of the Connecticut River and redfish/snook trips down south. I am interested in what you guys have to recommend for striper guide size (20 or 16) and running guides near the tip. I want to keep this rod light and I am playing with the idea of using single foot guides vice snake guides. What are your thoughts?

Best Regards
Peter White
Lyme, CT

I would use a high frame spinning type 16, followed by the same in a 10, and then size 8's the rest of the way out. That would be in ceramic single foot sizes. You can likely switch those 8's to 6's if you don't need to pass any sort of head to running line connection.

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Tom,
When you say a "high frame spinning type", would a fuji concept spinning guide fall into that category? I've only used casting style guides for the stripper guides and the concept of using a spinning guide is freaking me out! Does the spinning guide concept allow for a longer cast? (I'll have to tape some on and try it out). Is this a common trend, to use the spinning guide or are you ground breaking Tom? I know, I need to get out more.

I don't think it's ground breaking - I've been using them (SVSG) for more than 20 years in this capacity. It's higher and tends to reduce line slap a bit.

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I would call Trevor at T&T and he'll give you input on the guides, he's very helpful. Bill

My preference would be a 9 guide set-up all double foot.
Top 3 guides #2 recoil titanium snake.
Next 2 guides #3 H&H snakes
Next 2 guides #4 H&H snakes
#10 double foot alox insert
#12 double foot alox insert
I prefer double foot guides for rods heavier than 6 weight, especially in salt water, but keep the tip light through the use of titanium. I've heard several people that have had good results with single foot. I'll wait to be impressed.
If you have good luck with single foots let me know, but even then I would recommend titanium for the top 3 guides.

Good fishing
Gene

I would be interested in knowing the logic behind those #4 and #3 guides. Why not move right to the #2 guides? We know that if you tape up and look at the line path the addition of the #4 and #3 guides causes off-drops in line path every time you install a different sized guide. The path is straighter if you move to all #2's right out from the #10 stripper.

Seeing that the omission of the #3 and #4 guides results in less weight and a straighter line path, what is their purpose?

Single foot Ti guides will be lighter then the double foot