So I'm gaining more experience with this stuff just about everyday. In playing with TM lite finish, I always hear how folks are using anywhere from 2-5 coats of this stuff to get the job done right and their results are great. I think I've got some fisheye problems, or at least that's what I think...On the second and third coats, if I apply the finish too thin it seem that it like to expose holes in the finish, it'll pull the thin areas up back towards the heavier applied areas. I guess more info is needed. I'm turning the rod by hand to apply the finish and I'm getting it on there quick. I make sure it has complete coverage over the previous coat of finish. I let it sit less than 24 hours between coats as well. Is what I'm experiencing fisheye? I can take pics later tonight and post them up. And how would I fix this condition. It would seem that getting the previous coat back to a water break free surface would be key, but I've never heard of this being done between coats.

A fisheye occurs when the finish pulls away from an area. It is usually caused by some sort of contamination. Silicone is one such contaminant, but skin oils can cause the same effect. Be careful what you clean the surface with as some solvents are no longer pure as they are made from recycled materials.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

So I am experiencing fisheyes. the only thing I'm doing is moving the rod from the dryer to the closet to sit until I have the time to hit it with the next coat, not touching the finish. Would using a lighter to heat the bubbles out affect this?

Fisheyes rarely occur in ones or twos - if you have silicone contamination you'll have dozens, even hundreds of these small craters throughout your finish.

You have small areas repelling the additional application of finish. Make sure nothing touches the surface of the finish when you move it around (best not to move it at all, if you can help it). You might also try applying your subsequent coats a little sooner if possible.

......................

Andrew, it could be from oils on your skin when you wrapped the threads. It could be the thread got something on it. It doesn't take much. One dusting with furniture polish could ruin the area for a long time!

Also, try putting on a heavier coat. You want the epoxy to flow off the brush without the brush actually touching the blank. Better to put on too much, let it flow and level, and then remove some with the brush if desired. No way you should need five coats. One was enough on A thread for me. D thread soaked it up more and I can see I'll need a second coat.

I didn't find any need to use heat as there were no bubbles to speak of. Try blowing on the finish with a drinking straw if you have any bubbles.

Andrew I will suggest something a little different. You may be experiencing a normal occurance of the epoxy cure cycle. That slight pulling leaving areas of no finish immediately after application is quite common when thin layers are involved over plain blank or label surfaces.

A couple of things will help.

After you mix the finish let it stand for a few minutes before starting the application. Roger Seiders, Flex Coat, mentions in his presentations that finish is subjected to internal forces during the intial catalization process that may tend to make the finish appear to move around on its own. I have not used Threadmaster Lite but use Flexcoat and Threadmaster routinely. I normally do all thread wrapped surfaces when the finish is freshly mixed and wait a little to insure that the "curing movement" is minimized. I see it nearly every time large surfaces are involved. It can also be minimized by using a higher quality and softer brush to to the work.

When your are working the flat surface be sure to do it under good lighting, or it will never be noticed, and work narrow long bands before rotation by hand - if it is visible pulling wait a few more minutes and let the epoxy cure progress a little more before continuing. Just continue to work the area with long slow strokes until the "surface hold" is stable.

More than likely there is no contamination and you are just experienceing those things that need to be learned to produce a perfect finish. Your ability to recognize this is a big step to make.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2009 05:03PM by Bill Stevens.

I am wondering what is in the closet ?? Are your hands clean, did your wife wax the furniture ?? It can also come in throw a window. Wax a car ?? Any thing with oil, waxes will carry into the air and travel.

When I first started I used to worry about the finish, when some one walked though the door I used to get all upset. I also found the less I worried about it all - the better things came out.

When you get a blank, wash it to clean it because of all the people that had there hands on it. When finishing - make sure no one is like I said waxing a car, waxing furniture any thing with oils or silicones in it.

Bill - willierods.com

Bill is correct about giving the finish a chance to stabilize before application ... even a LSU fan will get one right answer occasionally. Better get that blue/orange thread ready.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2009 03:54PM by Jim Gamble.

I'm sure it was my fault, but I had the same problem with every "lite" type epoxy I tried. I gave up on it and went to regular and high build. If I need a thin coat I just put it on a little thinner. A stiffer brush makes a thin coat almost automatic.

That's like when I told people I thinned out the thicker finish with med - temp lacquer thinner. just being cheep. it worked and I had no problems what ever.

It is not the finish. there is some thing you are putting into it that is causing the fish eyes.

Load it on -- hand turn till it drips off excess -- then slow turn ??

Bill - willierods.com

Maybe I'm just rushing things. Now it's time to find the happy balance between too fast and not fast enough.

Here we go again!!

The Fat Lady has not 'sung" the final verse -

The rods will come again from the Clydes' bayou!

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2009 05:11PM by Bill Stevens.

It looks like a Moon Crater or a Meter Crater. For what ever that's worth ??

Bill - willierods.com

Andrew.

You've had a lot of really experenced rod builders answer you questions. I had this trouble a while back and posted a question on the forum. I called mudhole and flex coat and had all sorts of suggestions. I washed the mixing cups with alcohol, ordered new mixing sticks, and opened a new package of epoxy. In the end I think it was excessive heat from a lighter.

Chip