How would I produce cylindrical grips of very accurate and consistent diameters from one end to another? This is for tennessee grip using a preformed ring so I really want the grip to have exact diameter. I normally use sand paper to shape. I can get cylinders with sandpaper. With shaped grips, it doesn't matter if the measurements is a bit off. However, with a straight cylinder that is for tennessee rings, even very small variations becomes obvious.

Would I just tape sandpaper to a straight edges and use it against the rest? I do not think I'll be accurate enough with a scraper.

Curious how factories make their grips so accurately.

Thanks,
Mo

Mo,
You can use a very fine cutting tool that is "Bolted" to the steady rest to insure that your tool is at the exact distance from the center of the handle at all times.
As is the case when machining metal, small cuts that are made full length will insure a perfect cut.

I suspect that the factories simply use a computer controlled shaper to achieve 100% repeatability from handle to handle.

Bottom line - to get the same diameter from one section of your handle to the next, you need to be able to hold the cutting tool, or sand paper or?? absolutely rock steady and hold it there for the full length of the handle.

Good luck
Roger


p.s.
Another way to do it is to use a ring that would slip over the end of your handle, once you had made your initial sizing of the handle. Then, working slowly, you can shape the handle, such that the ring will just slip down the handle as you progress. This is clearly not as accurate as a computer controlled cutter, but in this case, probably accurate enough. If you get a ring that is a few thousandths larger than you really want, you will have a bit of "mistake" room to help you out for a low quantity of handles.

You need to invest in some woodturning calipers. They'll help you keep your cylinder straight and true to size.

You could also try the sandpaper taped to a straight edge. Factories, in fact, use a similar contraption although it cuts with a stone rather than sandpaper. The problem you'll have with the sandpaper is that it will tend to clog pretty quickly. But give it a go and see how it works for you.

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[www.rodbuilding.org]

Howdy all,

Just an off the wall thought but what a gadget that penmakes and other woodturners use called a duplicater . Would that work for making multiple cork handles like it does for pens ? Once youget one handle the way you want it the duplicater follows it as a pattern to mank another ofthe same size and shape .

Heath

Heath,
Again the problem with pattern makers is the tool that will work with cork without gouging.
As stated before, with the use of a fine tool, taking small cuts and going slowly may offer you good results with a pattern maker.
Give it a try and let us know your results.

Take care
Roger

Howdy Roger ,

Are you sure you want to wait that long for the results ?LOL. I'm not even close to turning my own Cork Grips yet . It was just a thought I had since I had seen the duplicater in one of my woodworking catalogs awhile back .


Heath

I am making a pair of jigs for my lather to help me with this problemonce i am done and know it works i will send you some pics.

Sounds interesting Bobby .

Heath

Mo

As in the thread from a day or so ago...

I start with a Surform tool. Then 80 and 120 grit papers double back taped to long wood blocks. I suppose they're 3" wide by14" long. When held diagonally, you get a very wide platform across the grip and its easy to keep everything "level". The Surform roughs to shape/diameter. Then I use the 80 grit to remove the tear outs. This is also when I fine tune my diameter. Stopping often and checking with my caliper. After I get all the tear outs removed and the grip to within about 60 to 40 thousandths of final diameter I move to my 120 grit block. That's used to start smoothing and to get to the final diameter.

By using blocks its actually quite easy to keep a constant diameter. And I have no trouble being within 15 thousandths from end to end on a T-handle.

Often times I also use a 220 grit block. That depends on how much inlay stuff I have in the grip and how much the hardness varies between burl and regular cork. But that 220 block comes in handy.

I finish off with 220, 320 and 400 grit papers. No block. And each is used very briefly. Their only job is to remove the scratches from the previous grit of paper.


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Better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Thanks everyone. Most helpful.

Matt, your approach is probably the most 'controllable' in that the suggestion of long wood blocks to allow more precise control. Thanks.

Mo

I take a slightly different approach and use a "profiler" that I developed (I may not be the first) that takes some of the inconsistency out of creating the proper grip profile.

I use it to start the reduction of the glued up grip and use it until the grip is about 1/8" oversize. I then use ever increasing grits of sandpaper to finish ending up with 400 or 600 grit depending upon the material.. I have a profiler for each fly rod grip style.

I have posted a photo of the "profiler" in the photo section under the grips and handle heading.