Hello all,
I was talking with one of the rodbuilders in my area recently. The subject of gluing cork rings came up. He informed me that he uses 5 minute epoxy to glue up all of the cork rings in his handles. I had never heard of anyone using 5 minute for this purpose. He stated that he didn't need to use a cork clamp, and he could be sanding the grip in about 25 minutes after gluing. He mixed the epoxy coated as many rings as he could, slid them on the mandrel, layed the mandrel on a table and pushed the first ring against the side of the table the other against his thumb and pointer finger for about 10 minutes. Anyone else using 5 minute epoxy this way? Sounds like a timesaver, but I was a little leery of it!
Mike Callery

I'd be leery of it too, at least until I saw one of his grips. There's a lot to be done on cork grip in 5 minutes or so. If he doesn't clamp his rings, and I doubt he has time to really push them together before the epoxy sets, then he's likely to have some terrible glue lines in his grips.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but it would require very precise timing without almost no margin for error.

Ask to look at some of his grips before you risk any good rings on this method.

..............

Mike,

I use 5-minute epoxy a lot of places people use longer stuff. I like that it sets up fast, though you have to be quick with it. Make sure everything is laid out well before you start, and don't try to do too much or mix too much. Generally I can do a fly reel seat with the recessed cork in 2-3 mixings. I can get 2-3 pieces glued at a time.

For cork rings, I still use the cork clamp. I'll put the first 7 cork on the blank, but have them slid up the blank and out of the way. I'll mix up a bunch of epoxy and start putting the rings on. If everything is reamed well and everything fits, I can put on those 7 rings in about a minute and a half. Then I clamp it all up (set your clamp close to tight before you start) and let it sit for 20 minutes. Repeat with the last cork. The only problems I have round are:

(1) Don't get any epoxy on your clamp. The epoxy sets quick and you probably won't have enough time to get it back off if you don't realize you got it on there.

(2) Make sure everything is laid out before you start. That is a good rule anyway, but when you are working in 5 minute (more like 3) intervals, you can forget something easily

(3) While the cork is clamped and drying, go back and look at the blank and reel seat carefully. More than likely you got a little spot of epoxy on them and you need to clean it off before it sets hard.

Rick Koontz
rkoontz@andrew.cmu.edu

Tom,

You are exactly right. You have to do it once or twice before you have the timing down. That is what I said don't try to do too much. If you have the rings reamed well, you don't need a whole lot of epoxy at all. I use an old 1/4" paintbrush to apply it. I'll put a small dab around the blank where the reaming might have been a little off. Then I'll spread a very thin amount on the up face of the ring and push the next cork down. I make sure my rings are filed really close to the blank so that I don't have to worry about voids and filling them. If you work sparingly, you don't get any glue lines. If you do get one, use some 70% rubbing alcohol and it will take them out, but only if the epoxy hasn't set yet.

Rick

I find plastic resin glue a lot better for gluing cork rings. No hard spots.

Rod Bond works so well with a coat that just covers the rings that I see no advantage to 5 minute epoxy other than the curing time and that shouldn't be a large problem by planning for a longer curing time to start with. The ease of use and application of the gel like Rod Bond plus the thin glue line and flexibility of the cured product make this a bonding agent without equal in my experience.

Stan,

You're probably right about rod bond being a better solution. I started with Elmer's white glue as that was what I was taught to use. It works, but you have to let it dry forever before you can work it. I glued up a rod this year with white glue and had the grip break because the glue hadn't dried. That was when I decided to go with epoxy. I have always used 5-minute epoxy for tips and seats, and for gluing preform grips. So, I tried it for rings. Yoe don't get any glue lines and I hardly have to use any epoxy to hold everything like iron. The big benefit I see is that it will flow into any spots where I may have reamed a little too much. I don't think rod bond will do that. If you're turning on a mandrel you don't have to worry. I ream first then glue to the blank though.

Thanks,
Rick

I have been useing Titebond II wood glue for my cork rings. It works great and gives me more time to put rings together. The main thing I dont have to rush things, and clean up is simple.. Thanks Dave's Custom Rods

AMEN!

Rick,

I may have to diagree with you on Rod Bond not flowing into all nooks and crannies. I just tried Rod Bond, for the first time, on some cork rings for a grip and to my amazement, it actually filled in the pits that are internal to the rings! As I turned the grip to size, most of the visible voids were filled in with the Rod Bond. I have never noticed that with Flex Coat long cure epoxy. Just a little F.Y.I., that's all.

Phil Ptak
Float Fishing Specialties

Phil,

Thanks for the heads up. I've never used rod bond, so as I said, I don't know if it would that or not. I've heard that epoxy was better for thin spaces and where flowing into someplace was needed, thus my conclusion.

I will try rod bond next order I place. It certainly looks much neater to work with.

Rick

Dennis,

The Devcon 5-minute is what I use. What does it matter if the epoxy yellows? Unles you have glue line, you don't see it anyway.

I didn't know about an expiration date. I will look for that next time.

Thanks,
Rick Koontz