I am just curious as to what the result is of recoating wraps after several days without scuffing the previous finish. I tried this and it seems that the finish tended to shrink a little toward the middle of the wrap but otherwise seemingly OK. Is this what one should expect?

The initial application will tend to repel the next. This is part of what you're experiencing. At some point down the road, the top coat may peel off the bottom coat as it won't likely be adhered to it very well. Then again you may get lucky and not have that happen. But it's very possible.

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The last coat may not blend in well with first one, it will act as 2 different layers instead as a single coating. I did this years ago and the top coat ended up peeling away from the bottom coat in places.

I was experimenting with this on some test wraps, I was not sure if there would be a lack of adhesion or just sort of footballing like excess epoxy on a wrap. I figured why not try it and see what happens.

John, epoxy is a very good glue. Like any glue, it sticks best to a surface that is clean. Epoxy can also "lock" into a joint. Think about the difference between a simple hole with a dowel glued in it and the same dowel glued in an "L" shaped hole. With normal wood glues the extra part of the "L" wouldn't matter because the glue has no structual strength. But with epoxy the "L" part would "lock" in the joint. Gun guys that epoxy bed actions can tell you all about that:) When you abrade the surface you are creating multiple little "L's" for the epoxy to "lock" in.

All of that is for applications where the epoxy has already cured enough.

Different "glues" cure by different methods. Epoxy (the kind we use) cures by means of a chemical reaction. If you re-glue before that action is (too) complete the next layer can chemically bond and it will act like one big application (more or less). If you wait too long the only bond is that of a glue bond. And for that to be its best you need clean and ideally, a surface to "lock" into.

Not all, but most epoxy has an "amine blush" after it cures. This is a waxy looking build up on top of the cured epoxy. This blush can be removed with simple soap and water but not by most solvents. If you try to remove it with sand paper (alone) it clogs the paper and smears itself over the epoxy. It prevents a proper glue bond so it must be removed. Wet sanding works well BTW.

IMHO, if you wash or wet sand the area......and you properly clean it.....you are going to do okay....but you will never get the chemical bond that you would have if you did it soon enough. Given what I know about epoxy in general I'd say you'd have to get down around 80-100 grit before you are obtaining a "lock" in the glue joint. Maybe others can comment on amine blush and if rod thread finish epoxy suffers from that.