A friend who recently lost his job also just broke a rod in two places. He asked me what I could do about it and I told him that I could re-use the guides and hook keeper, and possibly the tip top. Anything I had on hand would not be an issue, epoxy, thread and such. Without going into detail, he can't afford anything other than the blank and I can't afford any more than things I've got on hand. The broken rod is a Kistler carbon steel spinning rod. The old rod is quite thick at the end of the rod, the new blank is thinner. The new blank measurement at the end of the blank is just a touch thinner than the broken rod at the top of the reel seat. Can a good rod be built by re-using the handle section slipped over the new blank with the old blank still in place, if it fits?

Short answer, yes. If it fits of course. You want about 4 inches or so of overlap for a solid connection.

Geez, when people can't afford something they usually own ugly stiks, not high end factory rods.

I'm not trying to extend anything, just to re-use the old handle to save money, but I don't want to do that if it'sgoing to fail in the end. My intention is to take the handle section and use it and the reel seat to make a split grip, and the middle section of the split grip that gets cut out will be moved to the front of the reel seat. Buddy always said it was uncomfortable fishing with no foregrip on a spinning setup, like this kistler has. I cannot find a picture of this grip, it's a full cork grip, not like the half and half grip that you find when you look on other sites.

Billy, they got the rod when times were good.

Terry Morrell Wrote:
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> Billy, they got the rod when times were good.


Yup, he just got laid off a job he's had for ten years, the rod broke just two weeks ago.

Where are the breaks. You could just repair the blank. The article in the library is an excellent reference....might be fun to do also.

Scott Sheets
www.smsrods.com

There are two breaks, one is three inches from the top, and the other is five inches above the stripper guide.

I would guess an oversleeve for the break near the tip and possibly an internal sleeve for the lower break...just have to read the article and play with it.

Scott Sheets
www.smsrods.com

That "High END" of a rod, in your friends financial condition would be WORTH repairing if you do it correctly according to Ralph's article in the library above. If you need fiberglass scrap to do the repair I can help there just shoot me an email!!

Bill in WV

If you really just want to build a new one - cut off the handle and ream it to fit (this is messy reaming graphite - more so to me than reaming plain cork). Slide it over the new blank. Be some extra weight, but the old blank would just be functioning as an arbor.

Biggest issue I could see is no telling what is under the handle now between the cork and the blank. Could be masking tape, only epoxy, etc. That could present a new host of issues.

You could also boil it and slide the handle off the blank - reuse reel seat too if it fits the new blank.

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If it is broken above the stripper guide, you could make a telescopic rod assuming you could find a blank with the right taper. Guide placement should not be a problem.

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY

I had some details wrong in the information. There was a sliver of the blank that hung on to the top end and took some graphite with it down to the top of the stripper guide wrap. Any info on how to fix the sliver part?

[www.rodbuilding.org]

That whole blanks integrity has been compromised at that point (graphite strip runs from near tip all the way to stripper). A new blank is the only way you can go.

It goes from the lower break to the stripper, about 5 inches or so. No big deal either way. I may rebuild the tip end and build a heavy laker ice fishin' rod. Take the rest of the usable parts for the other rod.