I have an eight foot blank that I intend to put a penn 525 mag reel on. I'm not looking for a surf rod but casting distance is a factor (for pier/jetty/bridge work). I also want to use the rod on a boat. Most of my salt water rods have 10-12" of butt foam with a 2" butt cap. On this rod I'm considering something like 16-18" to center of reel seat (from end of butt). I don't want to end up with a rod that is hard to get into a fighting belt when needed though.

Are there formulas based on a persons arm length/height/etc.? Is there info on casting performance as a function of reel seat placment? Any words of advice are appreciated.


Russ
P.S. If it matters I'm 5'10"/180 and would buy a 17/34" dress shirt and a 42 to 44 suit. Blank is rclb80xl.

One reel seat placement will not perfectly suit all your requirements. A seat mounted at that location will be a beast to reel on a fighting belt unless it's a very low belt - down towards your knees.

Best thing you can do is handle the blank as if you're using it for whatever task you have in mind. Grab it, move it around as if you were casting and then reeling. Mark where your reel hand lies. Mount the seat so that your reel hand will fall there in actual use.

You don't want to have to adjust to any spacing based on a formula. Part of building a custom rod is to build the rod to suit you and what you're going to do with it.

................

Ditto on what Tom said. I do the same thing when building a rod that will be for my own use. I will also hold the reel I intend to use, or one close in size, with the foot against the blank to get a feel for how it will balance and to see if reeling will be comfortable.

I would try to work up a 6"-11" long removable fighting butt/grip extension. It would give you the best of both worlds. I would double up the thickness of the butt end of your existing blank for at least 8" then find a scrap piece to slide into it. Be sure it extends your desired 6"-11" and make it a split grip type of extension, it should work out fine! You might need a second piece of scrap blank cut just long enough to accommodate a gimble for your belt if desired.
Ed



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/08/2009 06:16PM by Ed Grella.

I can live with a compromise. I'll go on the side of fishing fighting and let the casting suffer. I'm guessing that means getting the center line of the reel closer to 12" or so? Please correct if I am wrong. It might sound pathetic but if all you have known is off the shelf stuff one might not know what is best. Likey I'll fish 17-20# and I do want it long enough for a two handed cast and also to tuck under my arm while waiting for a bite. Back problems have sorta required the fighting belt:(

Can you guys tell me the largest bore trigger seat around? I might make it with a 22 but a 24mm might be required. Not too sure how much reaming those graphite seats can take and how wise it is to force a tight fit.

For what is worth, use an aluminum reel seat from Pac Bay or American Tackle. I have broke 4 graphite reel seats (the nut that screws in to hold the reel) and once that is done the rod goes in the garbage. I did it by fishing off the piers and the fish was heavy enough to bring it up by the rod, so I pointed the rod towards the water lifting the fish in the line only...too much load and the reel seat gave up.

Please keep the internet green!
Recycle electrons.

Danny Condruti Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> For what is worth, use an aluminum reel seat from
> Pac Bay or American Tackle. I have broke 4
> graphite reel seats (the nut that screws in to
> hold the reel) and once that is done the rod goes
> in the garbage. I did it by fishing off the piers
> and the fish was heavy enough to bring it up by
> the rod, so I pointed the rod towards the water
> lifting the fish in the line only...too much load
> and the reel seat gave up.


Net?

Russ, we are back to that :old "gotta give up something to get something." I'm going to make a bold suggestion here: make TWO rods.
You said you wanted a distance rod, then said you would let the casting distance suffer in favor of fighting the fish. Great...if you are not in a situation where the distance is needed.
The nice thing about being a builder is you can get exactly what you want...but probably not in a single rod. So why not build one for casting distance off the pier, and one for fighting mechanics from a boat?
I face this issue all the time. I am 6'3" and I wear a dress shirt with a 38" sleeve. To put that in perspective, King Kong wore a 36". When I build a boat rod for myself, I build it with a longer foregrip than standard. I do that because it fits my body (and my long arms).
On spinning rods, I don't try to get my rod to do it all. What ends up happening is that it doesn't do anything well. So...here's a for instance: I just built two redfish rods. One is 7' long, parabolic action, and super light. It's great for 4-8 lb test line, long casts, live bait with circle hooks, and small lures. It is an open water rod for use from a flats boat or wading. I built a 2nd rod also for redfishing. This one is for fishing from shore or casting to docks and mangroves. 8-17 lb line, fast action, something to put the brakes on a fish in a hurry and get the fish away from cover. It is shorter, heavier and doesn't cast as far. It does, however, work in situations where the first rod will not. Neither rod will do it all well.
So enjoy the ride. Make lots of rods. Fish more often. And think of it as research...perfecting your craft. (Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.)

Russell, Fishsticks has some 24 trigger seats. I special ordered them. Give us a call and we will be glad to help you out. Thanks Scott Parsons