I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

4 jaw chuck
Posted by: Paul Lindsey (---.dsl.okcyok.swbell.net)
Date: August 28, 2009 07:46PM

This is probably a really dumb question. I just got a 4 jaw chuck and it is not self centering. How is the best way to center the wood stock for turning?

Thanks
Paul

Paul@soonercustomrod.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 4 jaw chuck
Posted by: John Kepka (---.dsl.stlsmo.swbell.net)
Date: August 28, 2009 07:58PM

What brand of chuck? I take it the chuck is for a wood lathe. I have a PSI 2 jaw and a nova which has 4 jaws and all the jaws move together. Perhaps I don't understand the problem.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 4 jaw chuck
Posted by: Billy Vivona (---.nycmny.east.verizon.net)
Date: August 28, 2009 08:04PM

Paul, it's one of those individual tightening jaw chucks? I saw those, and thought they were to hold odd shaped pieces for turning, like a triangular shape or something. If all you are going to turn is square stock, I'd return it and get a self centering one as it's at least 4 times easier to use.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 4 jaw chuck
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: August 28, 2009 08:12PM

Generally, the greatest accuracy is obtained from a 4-jaw non self centering chuck such as what you have. They are used primarily in the machine lathe trade. They also require careful set-up to get the most out of them. You don't need such a thing for wood turning and it's rare that wood turners bother with them.

Your very best bet is to return that chuck and get a normal woodworking self-centering chuck. It will be much quicker and far more useful to you than the machine lathe chuck you have now. Seriously, send it back and get a chuck that will be more useful to you in your woodworking endeavors.

................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 4 jaw chuck
Posted by: Rena Hall (---.oc.oc.cox.net)
Date: August 29, 2009 04:28PM

Paul,

If you can not return the chuck, here is a link that shows you multiple ways to center a 4 jaw chuck:

[www.google.com]

Rena

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 4 jaw chuck
Posted by: Paul Lindsey (---.dsl.okcyok.swbell.net)
Date: August 29, 2009 05:30PM

Thanks for your comments i have been lucky enough to receive an RMA from my vendor so i will be getting a self centering chuck.

Paul@soonercustomrod.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 4 jaw chuck
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.wa.comcast.net)
Date: August 30, 2009 05:16PM

Paul,
In contrast to some of the advice, I would recommend that you keep your 4 jaw individual jaw adjusting chuck and obtain an additional 3 jaw multi adjusting jaw chuck where all three jaws adjust together.

You won't need it often, but every now and then you might come across a need to be able to chuck up something that is not round and or shaped such that the four separately adjusting jaws will do a better job. Yes, it takes a bit of time to get the jaws adjusted, but when you need to chuck up an odd shape or you need super precision, the individually adjustable jawed chuck will do the best job.

I use my 3 jawed chuck about 90% of the time, but for the 10% of the time that I need the separate adjustments, the seaparate adjustments are essential.

Good luck
Roger

p.s.
To adjust, simply chuck up the work piece, and start turning the work piece by hand. First use your eye to center the work, and then as you get closer, you can use a dial caliper to get the work 100% centered in the individually adjustable jawed chuck.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 4 jaw chuck
Posted by: Russ Miller (---.lsanca.fios.verizon.net)
Date: September 01, 2009 12:49AM

Paul,

I used an independent 4 jaw chuck exclusively before I got a Barracuda Chuck with multiple self centering jaws. I rarely seem to have perfectly square stock, so the independent jaws do the trick. Here is what I do:

1) Find the center of both ends of stock and put a dimple at those locations.
2) Insert a center spur with a morse taper into the head of the lathe.
3) Insert a similar spur or conical centering piece with a morse taper into the tailstock.
4) Screw on the independent 4 jaw chuck.
5) The center spur should be small enough to clear the opening in the center of the 4 jaw chuck.
6) Open the jaws and put the dimple on the end of the wood over the point of the center spur.
7) Slide the tailstock with the other spur (or conical center) and line it up with dimple on the tailstock end of the wood.
8) Tighten the tailstock so the spurs at both ends go slightly into the wood.
9) Now that everything is aligned, tighten the 4 jaws of the chuck (I usually tighten opposite pairs of jaws, I never tighten in a CW or CCW sequence)
10) Loosen up the tailstock from the wood.
11) Remove the 4 jaw chuck with the wood still in tact.
12) Remove the center spur from the head of the lathe.
13) Attach the 4 jaw chuck with the wood still in tact.

Now you are ready to drill through the end of the stock by placing an auger bit in the tailstock. You can check that everything is still aligned by bringing the tailstock with the auger bit right next to the wood end. The dimple and auger bit tip should be in alignment. If this sounds confusing, all you are really doing is using the centering spurs at both ends of the lathe to align the stock in the independent jaws before tightening the jaws. This technique has worked well for many years on odd shaped pieces of wood.

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster