I have been building the bushings for reel seats with tape for years. I use to use masking tape. but recently started using the fiberglass drywall tape. I always built up these bushings to the point that they were tight enough that I had to turn the reel seat to get it in place. and then ran the epoxy. I am currently working on building up a rod using the new tape, I strarted wondering how tight these bushings need to be on a dry fitting, and how much space will epoxy bridge? Would I be better to go with a tight fit on the dry fitting, or allow a little space?

Tight fit, IMO. According to the "Guru of Glue" ... the best bond is the thinnest bond.

On a side note ... you really should consider polyurethane arbors IMO, if they will fit the reel seats you are using. Stronger, lighter and much easier to do.

I make mine snug but where I don't have to force it. If you have to push too hard you might move the tape. Also, I find it is important to make sure the rod bond makes it through all the layers of the fiberglass tape. I do this by putting a turn or two of the tape on and then applying a layer of rod bond, make a couple turns and smooth/mash it down with a spatula, then add a couple more turns and more rod bond. If the tape goes on all the way first there are fewer openings for the bond to contact the blank. Then, as the rod bond sometimes makes the tape not want to lay down, I take a threaded bobbin (fly tying addict here, too) and make a few wraps around the tape to hold the end down.

I've used a couple turns of the fg tape to beef up a slightly undersized foam arbor, too. Works great.

Foam arbors are nice and a lot less messy...but sometimes the fg tape is needed.

Les

Like said. The arbors are a lot easier to use. Glue in the seat, when dry ream to fit the blank.

Bill - willierods.com

Has anyone used the foam kit from Rileys Rods to make bushings?

Kirk_Miller Wrote:
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> Has anyone used the foam kit from Rileys Rods to
> make bushings?

I do. I had Mike make me some tubes and I cut them and then sand down to size followed by reaming them to fit the blank and the epoxy into place. They are perfect for this because they are lite and I make them 1-3 inches in length.

Kevin

kevin knox Wrote:

I do. I had Mike make me some tubes and I cut them and then sand down to size followed by reaming them to fit the blank and the epoxy into place. They are perfect for this because they are lite and I make them 1-3 inches in length.



Kevin,
I was thinking of doing the same thing, but read somewhere that it was recommended to use at least 8 pound foam for arbors as it was denser and thereby stronger. Are you using the 8 or 5.5 pound foam, and if you are using the 5.5 pound foam have you experienced any issues.

ron

Assemblies should be snug fitting - neither tight nor loose. Just a good slip fit.

..............

bill boettcher Wrote:
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> Like said. The arbors are a lot easier to use.
> Glue in the seat, when dry ream to fit the blank.


Ditto

Pac Bay also has black full length arbors.

Bill - willierods.com

I use whatever scraps of foam I have laying around for arbors. Mostly 5.5# but 4#, 6# and 8# too. No issues at all and these are mostly heavy saltwater rods with a bunch being used day in day out on charter boats. Just a nice snug fit with an appropriate amount of Rod Bond.

The foam scraps have tons of uses. Tip protectors for shipping, mandrel shims, centering cones, razor holder, place holders for rod layout.....

From feedback we have received we will be offering 4#, 6# and 8# foam along with a few different mold sizes in the very near future.

We will also be introducing some new 'college/team' colors to our hybrid sleeving line.

Riley Rods-Hard Core Grips to Go!-----Carbon Fiber - Composite Grip Store-----Capt Mike's Blog-----No Excuses Fishing Charters

I no longer use masking tape, but when I did, I had a little trick I used to keep the epoxy from being squeegeed off the tape by the reel seat.

After building up the blank with the tape until I got a fairly tight fit when the reel seat was slid over it, I would take a hack saw blade and make shallow cuts in the tape around it's circumference. These cuts held epoxy when the reel seat was slid over the tape.

I have some old Fenwick and Lami rods I made in the early 1970s ...the honey-colored fiberglass blanks...and I still use them. I have never had a reel seat loosen up using this technique. The rods range from ultra light freshwater to saltwater rods built to handle up to 20 oz of weight.

I suspect all the techniques work well when you do your part. I use foam arbors, drywall tape, and graphite arbors with equal success.
The only reel seats I have EVER had loosen up were on lower-priced factory rods.

I use 1/4" masking tape to put seats on- maybe three sections, one on each end and one in the middle, this way the epoxy can glue the seat to the blank and not only to the tape - only if there is a very small clearance between it and the blank. If large I use the arbors.

Bill - willierods.com

I use 1/4" masking tape to put seats on- maybe three sections, one on each end and one in the middle, this way the epoxy can glue the seat to the blank and not only to the tape - only if there is a very small clearance between it and the blank. If large I use the arbors.

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, you mentioned to glue the arbor in the seat and when dry, ream to fit..

how many arbors do you use, and once u ream to fit, how tight a fit ? i am wondering if the epoxy is able to flow between 2 arbors (assuming if using 2 or more) ..

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Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day..
Teach a man to fish, he'll be broke!

The arbors are generally full length, so completely fill the reel seat tube. Once it is glued in the seat, you ream to the same tightness of fit as a cork grip piece, and glue in place.

still trying to figure it out .. but wont the first arbor push the glue downwards? so if there is more then 1 arbor, the space between the 2 wouldnt really have any glue at all?

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Give a man a fish, he'll eat for a day..
Teach a man to fish, he'll be broke!