OK...remember a couple of weeks back when someone posted about stepping outside your rodbuilding comfort zone? Well...I have taken on a project that puts me miles outside.

I am building a saltwater 9wt fly rod for an individual to give away as a gift. It may or may not be used to catch small tuna here in the gulf. He wants a Sage blank and I am looking at the Xi2 Series specifically the 990-4 Xi2.

I am debating using REC guides or possibly the GTR series of AmTac ringlocks or if those are bad in the salt, I can go to a NIRLF solid titanium series.

I like the Struble U-1 Deluxe Uplocking Reel Seat but would actually prefer a skeleton seat so I could make my own insert to match the custom grips I am going to make. I don't know if the insert is just round or would require some sort of milling. If I have to mill it, I will just buy a premade.

I have a nice 9 inch double well grip made already that I would like to use but I'm not sure if that would be too short for a rod of that size.

Any and all advice is truly appreciated.

David, The Sage blank is a great choice, I personally like the TiC double foot guides as runners and a TiC frame with SiC insert for the stripper guide on saltwater fly rods. I have never used a grip that long on a rod that is no longer than 9 ft. Most saltwater fly rods use a full wells grip that is around 7 to 7 3/8" long. I'm not saying that you cannot use a longer grip, I have just never seen it done. As for the reel seat, most use an all metal or one that has a graphite insert with a fighting butt. Struble makes quality stuff along with Batson, Pac Bay, Am Tac, REC, and a bunch of others. I am pretty sure that Sage factory rods are made up with Struble reel seats. I would personally stay away from a wood insert due to the possible exposure to saltwater. Take a look on line at some of the high end fly rod companies and read over the spec's on their saltwater rods, they may not tell you what brand of component they use, but will at least say what materials are used. Hope this helps.

David,

I would probably build that rod with the Am Tac Ring locks. They do not have to be Titanium if they are rinsed after use in saltwater. There has been some talk about how well frames finished in black hold up to salt water environments. Just be sure that if you go with these, you don't over sand the guide feet so much that you expose the unfinished bare metal beyond the wraps (and thread finish) to the salty environment. I personally think that a more hefty flyrod like that should not have snake guides. Just my preference, but If you stick to snakes, you'll just be virtually duplicating all of the mass-produced rods out there. I too would avoid wood in a salty environment, but I avoid wood anyway. I've seen wood inserts cracked or caved-in due to various hapless incidents usually involving rod-influenced gravity and rocks. I actually like to use cork inserts on skeleton seats, but I would personally go with an all aluminum one piece reel seat for the saltwater environment. Look into American Tackle or Batson, they have some interesting looking seats. REC makes some great all aluminum seats as well - and they always SEEM lighter in weight than anything else out there (although slightly more costly). Struble makes good seats but they seem like such a generic reproduction of the offerings found on so many of the mass-produced rods out there.

Torin.

Alright....so I have made a grip, full well 8 inches long. It is wood and corian and even if there is a chance that it could split being used, I haven't had that problem with a wood grip my rod that I use at least weekly in the salt. I will take the advice and go with a solid aluminum reel seat but I need one that I can make a fighting butt on that will match the grip.

I haven't looked up guide spacing yet but will in the next day. If anyone has some guidance on that I would be most appreciative. I'm sure I am missing some vital info so please feel free to drop your knowledge my way.

check out the pacific bay Channel Lock fly seats (CL7). all aluminum. i've used a couple in the titanium color on 7 and 8wt bass rods, work and look great (thought i have little experience), price is good, better than my buddy's comparable struble seat. and fighting butts available to boot. i like the F2M.

eric
fresno, ca.

Building my first fly rod as well for myself and plan on using a flamed maple grip & fighting butt, and an all aluminum reel seat(AL8 AmTackle). It's an 8wt, and I chose to use AmTackle titanium guides. I use titanium on almost every build though, since it's so corrosion resistant. I only fish saltwater, living on the coast. I'm going to seal the wood grip in several coats of poly though, before exposing it to the environment. Of course, i'm stubborn and didn't ask for suggestions. Usually bites me, but it's the best way that I learn.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/2009 08:51PM by Jon Black.